The Tourist Gaze

“… FIFTY-EIGHT, FIFTY-NINE, SIXTY,” I count, then press the shutter button. The shutter clicks and within seconds the image appears on the camera’s sensor – a minute-long exposure of Joseph, Dave and Theresa sitting on a log by the beach. The night is silent, with only their conversations, the giggling of Theresa’s cousin, and my steady counting to accompany the splashing of the waves.

“Let’s see that,” Theresa says and the three huddle around me and my camera. “Our faces are blurred.”

“Yeah, I know,” I sheepishly reply. “I should have bought a tripod.”

“Let’s do it again,” Dave says. “This time, let’s not really move.”

Theresa, a “housemate” from the online version of Pinoy Big Brother, has invited us to spend an evening by the beach in Santa Cruz, Ilocos Sur, after the group met during the reality show. Though it was only Dave who made it to the final four and won the title of “online big winner,” the bond among the three is evident. We’re here to relax, share stories, and enjoy some time around a bonfire—except we forgot the matches and lighter.

As we sit on the sand under a starry sky, snacking on chips and soda from a convenience store, we discuss the next day’s adventure—a trek to Kagutungan Falls, one of the province’s hidden gems.

At around ten, Theresa signals for us to go and return to their house. We’re scheduled for a trek tomorrow to a nearby waterfalls and we’re planning to go there early. “You guys can get up by five in the morning?”

“Sure,” Joseph says. “We’re early risers.”

WE WAKE UP at around seven in the morning, two hours later than planned, and it took us one and a half more hours to eat breakfast, get ready and hail a tricycle to take us to the Kagutungan Falls. By nine we make our way to the central market to buy more chips and soda. It’s a Friday morning but the town center isn’t as busy as other large towns, with only a handful of people, mostly tricycle drivers, hanging around.

Ilocos Sur as a whole is often overshadowed by the fame of Vigan, but the province is rich with natural beauty, including rivers, forests, and waterfalls ripe for exploration. One such destination is Kagutungan Falls, a local favorite that doesn’t even appear on Google Maps.

Though not as famous for white-sand beaches as its northern counterpart, Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur offers a perfect blend of both water and mountain adventures. The province is bordered by the ocean to the west and mountain ranges to the east, making it a hidden treasure for outdoor enthusiasts.

It’s ten when we arrive at the tourist information center, a makeshift structure in front of what appears to be a town plaza and basketball court rolled into one. We are required to log in and pay a conservation fee of five pesos each. The tricycle drives a few more kilometers until it reaches a dirt road. From there, we walk along a river, past a rice field and through a forest. We clamber among boulders and, after a few minutes, we reach the falls. It’s an enchanting place. Waters cascade down tiers of rocks with large tree roots hugging them. We spend about three hours swimming, leaping to the waters below, and generally just wishing that time stop.

This is one moment I have a hard time letting go.

BUT ALL THINGS COME TO AN END. We’re back at Theresa’s house in the afternoon to prepare for our journey back to Manila. Theresa’s parents, along with her cousin, have started with the day’s production of baked goods – kneading the dough, mixing them with the other ingredients, and baking them in the furnace – which they will sell in their bakery afterwards.

Sooner or later, we’re going to face responsibilities back home as well. But for now I’m savoring the closing moments of a journey that has been nothing but delightful.

Discover More of Ilocos Sur: Hidden Waterfalls and Local Culture

Kagutungan Falls is just one of the many hidden gems in Ilocos Sur. The province’s natural beauty, coupled with its rich local culture, makes it a perfect destination for those seeking adventure and authenticity. Whether you’re trekking through forests, swimming under waterfalls, or enjoying local delicacies, there’s something for everyone in this quiet corner of the Philippines.