The Tourist Gaze

I finally mustered the courage to travel internationally again. The idea had been lingering for a while, but it was during my COVID-19 quarantine last year that I made the decision. An ad for Nepal trekking tours popped up on my feed, and something about it stuck with me. I wanted my first post-pandemic trip to be something meaningful, something that would push me out of my comfort zone.

I reached out to Adventure Hero, the company behind the ad, and explained that while I had trekking experience, I wasn’t exactly an expert. They recommended the Annapurna Panorama Trek, a five-day journey through the lower Annapurna region, known for its spectacular Himalayan views and cultural encounters. I paid for the trek and booked my flight for October. Unfortunately, the Delta variant happened, Nepal was placed in another lockdown, and I was forced to rebook the trip. I eventually rescheduled for March, the last available rebooking date for my flight. It wasn’t ideal, but at this point, I had to go.

Which brings me to now. As my tour service drives out of Tribhuvan International Airport, I’m finding it hard to imagine that Kathmandu was once a royal city. Crowded, choked with traffic, and with child beggars knocking on the window of my taxi, the Nepali capital can be overwhelming, especially for the first-time visitor. This is particularly true for me, as I’ve gotten used to the last two years avoiding crowds due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

About 30 minutes later, we arrive at the old city, the part of Kathmandu most visitors see. The service drops me off at my hotel in the heart of Thamel, the city’s tourist district. My sister, who arrived about three hours earlier in a separate flight, is eating late lunch in our room. My sister was a last-minute addition (sabit) on this trip after she decided just a few weeks prior that she wanted to go to Nepal as well. She paid for the trek as well and booked a separate flight.

After getting our bearings, we head out to explore the neighborhood and get a sense of Nepal. We explore the alleyways of Thamel, which remind me of the streets in Old Delhi, complete with the teeming masses of people and barrage of motorcycles.

From Thamel, we walk to Asan Bazaar, one of the city’s oldest and busiest market squares. This was historically an important stop along the India-Tibet trade route, and even today, it remains a vital commercial hub. The market is a whirlwind of activity—vendors selling everything from spices and textiles to kitchenware and fresh produce.

We continue to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the heart of the city’s royal past. Once the seat of the Malla and Shah dynasties, the square is home to intricately carved palaces, courtyards, and temples that showcase the city’s architectural heritage. Despite the damage from the 2015 earthquake, the square still retains its grandeur, and walking through it feels like stepping back in time.

After a long afternoon of walking, we stumble upon a small, unassuming restaurant just outside Durbar Square. It isn’t fancy, but it has momos, which I’m craving.

Momos are Himalayan dumplings, a staple in Nepal and Tibet. They come in different fillings, such as buff (buffalo), chicken, pork, and even vegetarian options. We order a plate of steamed momos, paired with a spicy dipping sauce.

Sitting on the second floor of the restaurant, overlooking the busy street below, I take my first bite of authentic Nepali momos. They’re warm, juicy, and packed with flavor, just the perfect way to end our walking tour of Thamel.

After returning from our trek, we still have time to explore Kathmandu. While my sister heads straight to the hotel to rest, I make a solo trip to Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple. Perched on a hill, this ancient Buddhist stupa offers panoramic views of Kathmandu Valley and is home to countless monkeys that add to its lively atmosphere.

That evening, we attend a farewell dinner hosted by Himalayan Wonders Adventure (the local partner of Adventure Hero) at Black Olives Café. It’s a great chance to catch up with fellow trekkers and exchange stories from the trail over plates of Nepali food.

That night, though, I experience a gallstone attack, which results in a sleepless night. With no 24-hour pharmacies nearby, I have to endure the pain until morning. The following day, I still feel unwell, with a slight fever and bloated stomach lingering throughout the rest of my time in Kathmandu. (Not exactly the best state to explore in, but I have to make the most of it.)

The next day, after a day trip to Patan, we meet our trekking guide Rawal and porter Pawan for dinner at New Orleans Café, a cozy spot with a relaxing garden setting. It’s our last time seeing them before parting ways.

The next morning, after taking our mandatory COVID-19 test, my sister and I take a taxi to Boudhanath Stupa, one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist sites outside of Tibet. We have brunch at a local fast-food chain nearby before exploring the area.

That afternoon, I wander east of Thamel, stopping outside Narayanhiti Royal Palace but not entering as it’s already closed for the day. From there, I strolled down Kanthi Path, passing by Rani Pokhari and Ratna Park, before eventually making my way to a shopping mall where I watch a Nepali movie.

The film itself is visually well-shot but oddly paced, telling a familiar story of a rural man trying to make it in the city. What makes the experience memorable, however, is what happens afterward. As I exit the theater, I see local media interviewing audience members, and to my surprise, the lead actor is there, taking photos with fans. I snap a quick photo on my phone before slipping away, an unexpected yet interesting peek into Nepal’s pop culture scene.

On our last morning, I make one final stop: The Garden of Dreams. This peaceful neoclassical garden in the middle of chaotic Kathmandu felt like a hidden oasis, perfect for one last moment of reflection before heading to the airport.

Kathmandu is a city of contrasts: spiritual yet chaotic, historic yet ever-evolving. Sure, it’s not an easy city to love at first sight, but once you embrace the energy and the madness, you start to see its charm.

It’s the perfect introduction and conclusion to Nepal, a hectic, intense, and unforgettable prologue and epilogue to an adventure I had been waiting years to take.