The Tourist Gaze

As the school year dragged on, my craving for the beach intensified, leading me to planning a trip to La Union province during a recent long vacation. I, together with my sister and two of her former colleagues, spend three days and two nights in this province in northern Luzon. It’s all about relaxation. We lounge on the beach, I read books, and enjoy the food — the restaurant scene in San Juan is something to be celebrated, with numerous beachfront restaurants offering Filipino delicacies, and international dishes.

We arrive in San Juan after about four hours of driving at around 10 am, well ahead of our check-in schedule. We first have our breakfast at by a food court near the beach. After filling our bellies, we have still about two hours to spare, so we burn some of it at Stream of Consciousness Coffee, a newly opened coffeeshop owned by actress Maris Racal. It’s a colorful — if cramped — place filled with Japanese artwork (mostly by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama) and indie tunes. I order a cup of Spanish latte, but since I’m not a coffee expert, I can’t determine whether it’s good. All coffee to me is good.

Two hours later, we finally check in at our accommodation, The Escape. It’s a nice place to crash in beachside, with large and clean rooms and an ideal place near the beach. The vibrant surf culture here is palpable, with surfboard-laden shores and enthusiastic surfers of all levels trying their hand at riding the waves. San Juan is known as the surfing capital of the North, and it’s evident when you witness the fantastic surf breaks. Even if you’re not a seasoned surfer, you can always take a lesson from one of the many surf schools along the beach.

Considering it’s a long vacation, I expected large crowds. But aside from groups of college students on their break and a handful of families, the place as a whole is surprisingly mellow.

After an afternoon nap, we embrace the beach lifestyle with a short walk going to Kabsat, a popular restaurant at the northern end of San Juan Beach. We do some impromptu photoshoot at sunset while sipping soda and munching on some snacks.

The next morning, I decide to explore the town center while my companions do some more food explorations. The laid-back vibe of San Juan becomes less pronounced here, though there’s nothing much to see — just a church, a park, and the municipal hall with traditional architecture. I return to the beachside about 30 minutes later, getting comfortable at a taqueria while reading a paperback novel.

This trip was actually supposed to be part of a longer one, where I was going to join my parents and some folks from church in Baguio. But I decided to go home, mostly due to budget reasons, after this. Nevertheless, this trip has given us a good, much-deserved escape. It’s a place where adventure meets relaxation, and where the people are as warm as the sun. As we prepare to head back home, I feel grateful for this memorable getaway, promising myself that I’m going to plan more trips once I’m financially able to again.