I step onto the sidewalk and feel the crispness in the air, signaling the transition into the Australian winter. The occasional cool breeze carries a hint of moisture, suggesting an impending rain shower. But it doesn’t rain. Instead, the sky is a canvas of soft grey, with patches of pale blue peeking through.

Melbourne’s central business district is slowly rising from its slumber. As I walk along Collins Street, I see a dynamic blend of architectural styles, where historic buildings with ornate facades stand alongside sleek, modern skyscrapers. Trams, an iconic symbol of the city, glide along the streets, seamlessly weaving through the traffic. The sidewalks are alive with a diverse mix of people. Business professionals, dressed in sharp suits and polished shoes, briskly make their way to the high-rise office towers. Students, walking in groups with their respective teachers, chat animatedly as they learn about various aspects of their country in the museums and their cities in the art-filled laneways.

It’s my first taste of Melbourne, Australia’s second-largest city, and I’m enjoying this morning walk.

We arrived from Sydney the evening before after an hour flight, after which we took another hour bus ride from the Avalon Airport in the neighboring town of Geelong. When we reached our apartment at just the western end of Melbourne’s business district, it was already dark and we were hungry. So we first did some groceries, cooked our meals, and rested for the night.

After breakfast, I decided I want to see much of Melbourne at my own pace, so I went on my own for a city walk, guided by my a guidebook I bought in Sydney. And now here I am.

From Collins Street, I take a couple of turns until I reach Degraves Street, a narrow, blink-and-you’ll-miss street characterized by its narrow, cobblestone pathway, flanked by an eclectic mix of heritage buildings. Like much of Melbourne, café culture is at the heart here, with cafés bustling with activity, especially during the morning rush and lunchtime. The scents of freshly brewed coffee and pastries fill the air.

Northward across Flinders Lane, I enter Centre Place, another iconic laneway in Melbourne. It’s a bit wider than Degraves Street, but it has a rougher vibe. It’s here that I get my first look of the city’s street art, with its walls adorned with various illustrations and graffiti.

I return to Collins Street and enter Block Arcade, an exquisite example of Victorian-era architecture that’s a common sight in Melbourne. Completed in 1892, and with a design inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, the arcade features a magnificent glass canopy, intricate mosaic tiled flooring, and ornate wrought iron detailing. The high ceilings and natural light create a grand and airy atmosphere, while the detailed craftsmanship exudes luxury and sophistication. The arcade houses a variety of boutique shops and specialty stores, the most notable perhaps is the Hopetoun Tea Rooms. Established in 1892, this historic tea room is famous for its decadent cakes, pastries, and high tea service, and the window display of cakes just begs for a picture.

Exiting the other end of the Block Arcade and crossing Little Collins Street, I enter the Royal Arcade. Completed in 1870, it’s the oldest surviving arcade in Australia. It showcases the grandeur of Victorian-era design with its intricate moldings, large arched windows, and a pretty mosaic floor. Originally built to provide a covered walkway and shopping venue, the Royal Arcade has been a central piece of Melbourne’s retail landscape for over 150 years. The most distinctive features of the Royal Arcade are Gog and Magog, two giant mythical figures flanking the arcade’s southern end. These whimsical giants strike the clock bell every hour.

I exit the arcade and am supposed to turn right to Union Lane, but today a renovation is ongoing, so the street is closed. Instead, I walk straight and turn right at the next block in Swanston Street, going south to the Melbourne Town Hall, yet another example of Victorian-era architecture in the city. Designed by architect Joseph Reed, the building showcases a grand neoclassical style with a distinctive portico, Corinthian columns, and a grand clock tower that has become a city landmark. Aside from its distinctive appearance, the Melbourne Town Hall has played a pivotal role in the city’s history. It’s used as a meeting place for the Melbourne City Council, as well as a site for public gatherings and cultural celebrations, including royal receptions, concerts, and civic ceremonies.

Across it is another one of Melbourne’s most iconic and historically significant structures: the Manchester Unity Building. But rather than another Victorian-style architecture, this building has an Art Deco style, which became popular during the interwar period. The building was designed by Marcus Barlow and is noted for its striking Gothic-inspired vertical lines, ornate detailing, and the use of terracotta faience tiles. One of its most distinctive features is the soaring tower, which is crowned by a distinctive copper spire. The building’s façade is adorned with intricate decorative elements, including gargoyles, spandrels, and friezes. The building was commissioned by the Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows to serve as their headquarters and a commercial space. It was completed in just eight months, an impressive feat at the time, and its opening was a significant event in Melbourne’s architectural history.

I reach Collins Street once more, then turn left, heading east until I reach Scots Church and St. Michael’s Uniting Church across the street. The former is an example of Gothic Revival architecture while the latter is an example of Romanesque Revival architecture. The church is renowned for its music, particularly its organ recitals and choral performances. It regularly hosts concerts and recitals that attract music lovers from across the city. The acoustics of the church make it a favored venue for classical music performances. Meanwhile, St. Michael’s has been a center for progressive thought and social justice, often engaging in outreach programs and community services. The church has a long-standing tradition of inclusivity and support for various social causes.

Another series of turns leads me to Ducklane Place and AC/DC Lane. Both laneways are renowned for their street art and live music heritage. Like many of Melbourne’s laneways, Duckboard Place is a canvas for street artists. The walls are adorned with colorful murals, graffiti, and stencils, creating an ever-changing outdoor gallery. The artwork here is dynamic and diverse, ranging from intricate, large-scale murals to smaller, provocative pieces. AC/DC Lane, named after the legendary Australian rock band, is a tribute to Melbourne’s rich music history. The laneway’s art, eh, illustrates the rebellious and energetic spirit of rock music.

Finally, I arrive at Hosier Lane, arguably Melbourne’s most famous street art laneway. The street’s walls are a canvas for local and international street artists adorning the walls from top to bottom with ever-changing colorful artworks, stencils, paste-ups, and tags. The constant evolution of the artwork ensures that each visit to Hosier Lane offers a new experience. Right now, there are groups of students as well as tourists taking in the artistic vibe, doing photo shoots, and just strolling around.

After taking a break at a nearby cinema to watch a newly released movie, I walk to the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia where I am to meet my mom, sister, and our two family friends Tita Noemi and Ate Lita for the rest of the city tour. (My dad went to meet an old friend in a coffee shop somewhere.) The Ian Potter Centre building itself is a modern architectural marvel, designed to complement the surrounding Federation Square precinct. Inside is an extensive collection of artworks, spanning from Indigenous art showcasing the diversity and richness of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, to works from the colonial period of Australian art history, reflecting the country’s early European settlement and exploration.

When my companions arrive, we walk to the St. Paul’s Cathedral Melbourne, another church that holds both architectural and cultural importance within the city (but also because our school is named St. Paul Christian School — not related to St. Paul College, hah!). The exterior features a striking blend of red brick and sandstone, characteristic of the Neo-Gothic style, and has elaborate carvings, pointed arches, and intricate details that reflect the medieval influences of Gothic architecture. Coupled with the autumn foliage, the surroundings give a European vibe. Inside, the cathedral’s nave is spacious and adorned with high vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, and polished timber furnishings. The interior design emphasizes vertical lines and natural light, giving a serene atmosphere conducive to reflection. The cathedral has been a cornerstone of Melbourne’s religious and cultural life for over a century, serving as the seat of the Anglican Diocese of Melbourne.

After a late lunch at a McDonald’s restaurant, we take an Uber to the Royal Botanic Gardens, a sprawling oasis of natural beauty just south of the central business district. Established in 1846, the Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne was created to establish a scientific and recreational resource for the then-growing city. Over the decades, the gardens have expanded and evolved, becoming a vital center for botanical research, education, and conservation. The gardens boast an extensive collection of over 8,500 plant species from around the world, including rare and threatened species. Within the gardens, there are several historic buildings and structures of architectural significance.

We spend our time in the Shrine of Remembrance, just outside the garden’s southwest. Completed in 1934, the shrine was built to honor Victorians who served in World War I and has since become a central place of remembrance and reflection. The expansive grounds is surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens known as the Shrine Reserve, which includes avenues of trees, statues, and commemorative plaques honoring different military units and conflicts.

From here, we take another Uber to the iconic Flinders Station, where we ride a couple of trams (for free!) to our apartment just in time for dinner.