The Tourist Gaze

From colonial churches to glass-walled buildings, a diverse cityscape defines the modern Iloilo City, all tucked in a relatively tiny space by the southern coast of Panay Island. Capital of its namesake province, Iloilo City is geared towards the future while not forgetting its past — a modern city with a traditional heartbeat. The Atis, Panay’s first peoples, enjoyed the coast for hundreds of years, and Iloilo City is still defined by its harbor and rivers.

I’ve been to Iloilo City thrice in the past nine years, but I still want to visit any time an opportunity arises. And this is exactly what happens when my mom brings me along with her while she attends a women’s conference in the recently opened Iloilo Convention Center. While she and her companions are at the event, I take this chance to see the city again and discover some new and maybe even old aspects of the city I’ve never seen before.

Day One

Still reeling from a sleepless night, I focus on taking it easy on the first afternoon and explore Iloilo Business Park, a prime example of modern development. While the park exudes urban sophistication, the history of Iloilo City is never far away, evident in its cultural landmarks like the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art (ILOMOCA). Spanning over 72 hectares, the area is designed to be a bustling district combining residential, commercial, office, and leisure spaces.

A modern upscale mall looms large with all the trappings of modernity. Yet the most interest for travelers is perhaps the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art (ILOMOCA) — a three-story repository of various forms of contemporary art, including paintings, sculptures, installations, and multimedia artworks. The ILOMOCA serves as a platform for local and international contemporary artists to exhibit their works, aiming to promote contemporary art and culture not only in the province but the whole Visayas region.

Without much energy to push further and with my eyes getting heavier by the minute, I spend most of the afternoon in the Festive Walk Mall before returning to the hotel to catch some much-needed sleep.

Day Two

Having charged myself with a good night’s rest and some buffet breakfast at the hotel restaurant, I brace myself for a whole day of exploring. I start at the Jaro District, mostly because it’s nearest to the hotel, but also because it’s one of the earliest Spanish settlements and a key part of the history of Iloilo City.. Originally a separate town from Iloilo City, Jaro was one of the earliest Spanish settlements in the Philippines and served as a religious center during the colonial period. It’s home to the Jaro Cathedral (also known as the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles), which houses the miraculous image of the Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria (Our Lady of the Candles). The cathedral is a popular pilgrimage site and a significant cultural landmark in the Visayas region.

From Jaro, I ride a jeepney southward and cross the river to the Museo Iloilo, another layer of insight into the history of Iloilo City. It’s not obvious from the small exterior, but this building houses archaeological finds, traditional textiles, religious artifacts, pottery, and artworks spanning different periods of Iloilo’s history. The museum also conducts lectures, workshops, and community outreach programs to promote cultural awareness.

Right next to the museum is the National Museum of the Philippines – Visayas. Housed in what used to be a prison compound and later a rehabilitation center, the museum has transformed from housing inmates to housing a diverse collection of artifacts, including archaeological finds, ethnographic materials, traditional crafts, historical documents, and artworks from the Visayan islands, especially from Panay.

From the museum, I drop by shortly at the provincial capitol before crossing the river northward to the La Paz market for some lunch. Then I take a taxi back to the hotel to rest for a bit as the early afternoon sun is starting to get intolerably hot.

At about 3 pm, I go to the University of the Philippines – Visayas to visit its museum. Similar to the other two museums, the UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage contains a diverse collection of artifacts, including archaeological finds, ethnographic materials, traditional crafts, artworks, and historical documents, which provide valuable resources for studying and understanding the cultural and historical development of the Visayan islands.

Having my fill of museums for the day (or maybe the rest of the trip), I walk a bit to the Molo district (for some reasons, jeepneys are fully packed). Similar to Jaro, Molo is one of the oldest districts in Iloilo City and has a rich history dating back to Spanish colonial times. Its most famous landmark is the Molo Church (St. Anne Parish Church), famous for its Gothic-Renaissance architecture and is often referred to as the “feminist church” due to the all-female saints depicted inside. Surrounding the church is a strong sense of community and local culture, with streets lined with bustling markets, traditional eateries (carinderias), and a mix of residential and commercial areas that reflect both old and new developments.

If Jaro and Molo smack of the 19th and early 20th centuries, the story of today’s Iloilo City unfolds in the River Esplanade, a waterfront park that stretches along the banks of the Iloilo River from Diversion Road in Mandurriao to the Carpenter Bridge in the downtown area. The esplanade has picturesque views of the river and the city skyline, becoming a favorite spot for locals to stroll, jog, cycle, or simply while the time away by the riverside. The surrounding area also serves as a social hub, with cultural performances, concerts, festivals, and community events held throughout the year.

From here, I walk all the way to SM City to do some errands before returning to the hotel to retire for the day.

Day Three

From our hotel near the Business Park, we transfer to a cheaper hotel in downtown Iloilo City. The convention is over, but we have two tours for the next two days. Today, it’s all about charging up for those tours. But like a cat landing after a fall, I quickly get on my feet and explore the neighborhood.

The part of Iloilo City south of the river has anchored the city since even before the Spaniards arrived, as shown by the diverse architectural styles that are clustered along its busy streets. In particular, the historic Calle Real (J.M. Basa Street) is lined with several Art Deco buildings, many of which have been preserved and restored. Walking along this street offers a glimpse into the architectural trends of the city in the early 20th century. I realize how seamlessly the history of Iloilo City intertwines with its modern aspirations.

My walking tour ends, ironically, with a dinner in a fast food restaurant in a mall. But it’s getting late, and we need to be up before dawn the next day, so I’m fine trading some authenticity for comfort. Anyway, if the last three days have taught me anything, it’s that the future is inevitable. I might as well enjoy it, so long as I appreciate the history around me.