The Tourist Gaze

Early the next morning, we depart for the Sheikh Hussein Bridge, one of the main entry points for travelers moving between Jordan and Israel. The Jordan part of our tour has concluded, and we’re now heading to one of the world’s most high-tension areas. It’s an overall disconcerting feeling, although aside from a random security check at the Israeli immigration building (where I was led to a separate room and frisked by a soldier from head to toe and front to back and side), the whole process was smooth and fairly quick.

And now we’re on the other side of the Jordan River. The bus winds through a highway alternately lined with olive trees, fields, and the occasional banana plantation, with nary a sign of the conflict or violence. “We’re far from it,” our guide, Iad, assures us. About half an hour later, I finally glimpse the Sea of Galilee shimmering at the horizon. Iad chuckles and says, “And there it is! The same view that’s launched a thousand pilgrimages–and probably a few missed turns!”

The Sea of Galilee, also known as Lake Kinneret, has been a vital region for centuries, not only as a source of freshwater and fish but also as a place of profound spiritual and historical significance. Its northwestern shore, in particular, is home to some of the most cherished sites in Christian tradition. Today, Christian pilgrims flock to these sacred sites, drawn and connected to stories that shaped their faith.

After lunch of St. Peter’s fish (tilapia) at a restaurant in Magdala (Mary Magdalene’s hometown), we’re whisked off to our first destination: the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, a tranquil sanctuary in Tabgha on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee. This church commemorates one of the most well-known miracles in the New Testament, where Jesus is said to have fed 5,000 people with only five loaves and two fish. The current church, built in the 1980s by German architects, sits on the site of a 4th-century Byzantine church, with remnants of its original mosaics still wonderfully preserved. The mosaics, depicting flora, fauna, and a basket of loaves with two fish, are among the oldest Christian art in the Holy Land and add a unique touch of ancient artistry to the holy site.

Inside, the altar is positioned over a large limestone rock, traditionally believed to be the spot where Jesus blessed the loaves and fishes. It’s not a large church, but its simple yet elegant design highlights the generosity, compassion, and faith embodied by the miracle it commemorates.

We then head to the nearby Church of the Primacy of Saint Peter, located at the shore of the Sea of Galilee. According to tradition, it was here that Jesus appeared to Peter and the other disciples, asking Peter three times, “Do you love me?” and commissioning him to “Feed my sheep,” symbolizing Peter’s role as the leader of the early Church. The current church, built in the 1950s, stands near a large rock, known as the “Mensa Christi,” where Jesus is thought to have shared this pivotal moment with Peter.

The church is pretty simple, and the place’s main feature is its beautiful and serene views of the Sea of Galilee just outside. The church’s open, airy design and use of local stone blend with the natural beauty of the surroundings. We stroll around the lakeside, enjoying the crisp air and the reverence that permeates in such a storied place.

We go next to Capernaum. Often referred to as the “Town of Jesus,” the place is where Jesus performed several miracles, including healing the paralyzed man who was lowered through the roof, and where He called His first disciples—Peter, Andrew, James, and John. Today, the ancient ruins of Capernaum demonstrate the town’s biblical importance. The remains of a 4th-century synagogue, believed to be built on the foundation of the one Jesus preached in, stand as a central feature of the site, along with the house of Peter, which is marked by a modern church built above it.

The heat in Capernaum this afternoon is intense as we walk around the ancient ruins, and the air feels thick and heavy. A dull headache creeps in as I try to imbibe the history of the place. Nonetheless. walking through Capernaum gives us a direct connection to the New Testament narrative, as we see remnants of the homes and streets where Jesus may have walked. The peaceful atmosphere of the site and its the beautiful view of the Sea of Galilee (minus the relentless beating down of the sun) make it a poignant place for reflection.

Finally, we head to the Mount of Beatitudes. Located on a scenic hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the mount is one of the most iconic and tranquil sites for Christian pilgrims. It is traditionally believed to be the place where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount, sharing the famous Beatitudes, which include the blessings for the poor in spirit, the meek, and those who hunger and thirst for righteousness. The church built here in the 1930s beautifully complements the natural surroundings, with its octagonal shape symbolizing the eight Beatitudes. The peaceful gardens overlook the sparkling waters of the Sea of Galilee, with Golan Heights peeking at the horizon. And because it’s on an elevated ground, the air is cooler and breezy.

The church’s interior is simple yet elegant, with stained-glass windows depicting various scenes from the Beatitudes. The peaceful setting and the view from the mount invite reflection (even for the non-religious or non-Christians) on the core teachings of Jesus, which emphasize humility, mercy, and purity of heart.

Having our fill of the views, we return to the bus about half an hour later. We’re supposed to do next a boat ride at the Sea of Galilee, but Iad says we are prohibited from doing so by the Ministry of Tourism due to some vague reasons about the lake’s waters. He can’t — or perhaps won’t — explain further, adding that we’ll try again tomorrow.

So instead, we stop at a souvenir store, then make our way to Nazareth, where the bustling town contrasts with the calmness of the Galilean shores. We check in to our hotel, ready to rest and prepare for tomorrow.