Almost 40 in Japan: Starting the Journey in Osaka

Namba Station and Around: First Impressions of Japan

Amerika-mura’s Triangle Park is a quirky mix of street fashion, art, and youthful energy.

Nightfall lends an electric pulse to Osaka’s Namba district. Fresh off the train from Kansai International Airport, I step into the bustling maze of Namba Station. The energy is palpable—commuters moving with purpose, announcements in Japanese echoing through the sprawling complex, and the rhythmic clatter of suitcase wheels against tiled floors. Neon signs and LED screens light up the concourse, casting shifting patterns on hurried footsteps and weary faces. The atmosphere is charged with the city’s restless rhythm.

I’m in Osaka to start my first-ever Japan trip, and it feels surreal to finally be here in this country, mainly because it’s been a dream nearly two decades in the making. I can pinpoint when exactly this fascination started: in 2006, when during a class, a professor humorously played a Morning Musume music video while we worked on a 3-D animation activity. Even if I had been fed a steady diet of anime and Japanese videogames in my early teenage years, it was that music video for some reason that sparked a growing curiosity about Japanese culture that deepened over the years.

But costs and the strict visa application process led me to prioritize Southeast Asia, South Asia, and South Korea first (so many “Souths”!). When I finally planned my Japan trip in earnest, I was quickly met by the disappointment of a visa denial just days before COVID-19 lockdowns halted the world. The wait then stretched for almost five more years.

And now, as I’m about to turn 40 this month (gosh, how time flies!), I’m finally doing this trip. I’m set on starting this adventure, but first I need to check in and get some rest.

As soon as I emerge from the Namba Station and begin the walk to my hotel, the frenzy starts to fade. The crowds thin, and the brightness of the station gives way to quieter streets illuminated by the glow of vending machines and the occasional storefront sign. In the quiet of Osaka’s backstreets on a January night, the city presents a different side—subdued and unexpectedly peaceful. It’s a sharp contrast to the frenzy of activity I just left behind. The winter chill hits my cheeks with silent force and is apparent through my breath. The freshness of winter informs me that I am awake and indeed in Japan.

Minutes later, I’m finally in my hotel room. I put down my bags and lie down on the bed. The room is tiny but snug, and the warmth of the heater dispels the lingering cold from outside. Tomorrow is going to be a busy day, as I only have a day to soak in as much of Osaka as I can. For now, though, rest calls. I drift off, finally getting some real downtime after the day’s exhausting journey.

Naniwa-no-Miya Park: A New Day in Osaka

The early morning sun rises over the Naniwa-no-Miya ruins.

I wake up at just past six the next morning. To maximize the time, I’m planning to be at the least going to the place by sunrise. Wrapped in layers and a bubble jacket, I step out into the chill and make my way to a nearby konbini, where I grab a quick breakfast—cold onigiri and a bottle of water.

Then I board the subway to Naniwa-no-Miya, a park across the highway from Osaka Castle. It was here, in the early 7th century, that Japan’s first capital was established, marking the beginning of a more centralized government under the influence of Emperor Tenji. The ruins echo Osaka’s vital role in the formation of early Japanese civilization, emerging as a hub for trade and cultural exchange, and laying the groundwork for its modern-day identity as a city of commerce and connection.

Sitting on a rock, I watch as Osaka begins to rise from its Friday evening bustle. The ruins are softly illuminated by the early morning sun. Birds are chirping in the cold air, and the few trees without leaves add a stark beauty to the landscape. Across the sprawling field of grass, children and teens fly kites. They laugh as they run, giggling as their kites dance in the wind. One of the older boys seemingly yells over to the young girl, “Look at this! I bet you can’t keep it up there for long!” Okay, so maybe not that exactly, but their expressions tell me he’s saying something to that effect.

A pair of skateboarders are practicing tricks at the base of a platform that used to be the council hall of the imperial palace. A few meters away, a group of young women is posing for pictures in front of a red backdrop for a Vietnamese celebration. As the day progresses, the city’s vibe gradually moves from a just-woken-up tranquility to a faint morning hustle.

Osaka Castle: A Timeless Treasure in the Heart of the City

The towering walls and surrounding moat of Osaka Castle once served as a formidable defense, guarding the power and influence of its strategic location.

Inside the castle is a diverse collection of artifacts that offer a deep insight into Osaka’s rich history and the castle’s storied past.

The topmost level of the castle provides a panoramic view of the city.

Half an hour later, having my fill of quietude, I make my way to Osaka-jo, a towering fortress that stands proudly in the heart of the city. Built in the late 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s most influential military leaders, the castle became a symbol of the city’s rise to power during a period of intense political consolidation.

The sheer number of people becomes apparent as I enter the area—tourists snapping photos, joggers making their way through the castle grounds, and cyclists weaving along the paths.

The castle’s imposing walls and moats served as a stronghold and seat of power that controlled much of the region’s politics and trade. Its strategic location, overlooking the surrounding plains and waterways, made it a pivotal point for both defense and commerce. Osaka’s early wealth and influence grew during this time—its merchants and traders flourishing in the shadow of the castle, establishing the city as a center for commerce.

Still, much of what visitors see today is actually a replica, reconstructed in the mid-20th century after the original was destroyed. Following Hideyoshi’s death, Tokugawa forces attacked and ultimately dismantled Osaka-jo in 1615. Although the castle was rebuilt by Tokugawa Hidetada in the 1620s, its main tower was struck by lightning in 1665, caught fire, and was never rebuilt during the feudal era. The present ferro-concrete reconstruction of the castle tower wasn’t built until 1931. Remarkably, it survived the city-wide air raids during the war. Major repair works in 1997 restored its grandeur and brought new life to the castle. Today the castle stands as a faithful homage to its predecessor, with its grand stone walls, towering keep, and intricate designs carefully preserved to show the same sense of grandeur and reflect its historical significance.

Following my exploration of the interior of the castle, I wander around the sprawling grounds. The lively energy dissipates the farther I get from the castle itself, and the chilly morning air adds a crispness to the peaceful atmosphere. Near a shrine, I pause to watch a monkey show—a woman and her agile companion performing tricks to the delight of an appreciative crowd.

Domo-kun Exhibit: A Lighthearted Detour in the NHK Building

Beloved NHK mascot Domo-kun captures Osaka’s playful and vibrant spirit.

After spending some time walking around the vast grounds of Osaka Castle, I make my way to the Osaka Museum of History in the NHK building, just a short walk away. It turns out that the museum is closed for the New Year weekend. So instead, I step into a small NHK exhibit nearby, where familiar characters like Domo-kun and other characters of the network rekindle my inner child. It’s a fun and light-hearted distraction, inserting a bit of Japanese pop culture in a history-filled morning.

The exhibit leads me to the 9th floor, where I catch a glimpse of a set under construction, possibly for an NHK program. Nearby, there are displays dedicated to popular NHK actors and shows, highlighting the cultural significance of the network in Japanese households.

Nakanoshima: A Tranquil Escape from Osaka’s Crowds

The Central Public Hall in Nakanoshima stands as an example of neoclassical architecture in Osaka.

Nakanoshima’s peaceful surroundings make for a conducive environment to read a book outdoors.

Myaku-Myaku, the mascot for the 2025 Expo, represents the vibrant spirit of Osaka, the host for this year’s event.

Just before lunch, I return to the hotel to charge my phone, take a brief rest, and regain my bearings. I arrived in this city with nothing resembling a tangible plan other than to see the castle and see the Umeda Sky Building before eating Osaka street food in the evening. The in-between is mostly blank. So I use this brief respite to research on where else I can explore. Nakanoshima, an area known for its peaceful ambiance and beautiful riverside scenery, seems the most promising.

And I’m glad with my choice: Nakanoshima feels like a city apart from the crowds of Osaka Castle and the bustling main wards. Here, the streets are hushed, and the pace slows.

Sharing this space with only a smattering of people, I find myself appreciating this quietude. Most attractions in the area are closed due to the New Year holiday, so I spend an hour or so just watching people around me do their thing. A woman in kimono poses gracefully for a group of photographers in front of the Central Public Hall, its neoclassical facade standing as a beautifully restored gem from 1913. Nearby, a woman sits quietly by the water, engrossed in a book, seemingly untouched by the passage of time or the city beyond.

Osaka Station City and the Umeda Sky Building: Navigating the City and Rising Above It

The city’s energy meets with a constant flow of people at the Osaka Station City.

An ice skating rink allows children and adults alike to enjoy the winter charm of the Osaka City Station.

Umeda Sky Building’s structure recalls a space shuttle about to be launched to space.

The Umeda Sky Building’s escalator carries visitors up to its panoramic observation deck.

The view at the top of the Umeda Sky Building reveals Osaka’s sprawling cityscape.

I finally head back to the main hub through Osaka Station City, which is packed with people, eateries, and stores. Osaka’s frenzied vibe is back. I start off on a pretty long walk to the Umeda Sky Building, but without wifi, I can’t pull up Google Maps. It makes my awful sense of direction struggle even more in the confusing layout of the station. The winding route and the charm of a bookstore stretch out the duration of the journey. But this at least gives me a chance to take in the manic vibe around me, including a skating rink where families are happily gliding across the ice.

As I get closer to Umeda Sky, the building looks really tall and impressive, with its two towers linked at the top by the Sky Walk, reaching up from the busy streets of Osaka. Built in 1993, this unique building represents Osaka’s shift from a merchant town to a lively city. The Umeda Sky is set up right where the old train station used to be, in a spot that used to be buzzing with Osaka’s economic and industrial energy. I walk in and hop on a mix of elevators and an escalator to get up, and honestly, the escalator is part of the fun.

When I get to the top, the view of Osaka opens up all around me. I take in the sprawling view, feeling the chilly winds hit my face. Up here, I can see the bridges connecting the city, the vibrant neon areas buzzing with life, and way off in the distance, some green spots breaking up the concrete jungle.

Osaka might be a modern metropolis, but it had been a center of trade and culture centuries ago, something that it proudly embraces. Something about this makes me vulnerable. Maybe it’s the city’s ability to reflect the passing of time, to find common ground between embracing what it can become and preserving how it’s been. Somehow, it harks to my own journey of having to find a way to embrace both my past and the future. Time shapes places as much as it shapes people.

Why the heck am I musing? Maybe I’m just overthinking because of the view. Or perhaps it’s nutritional deprivation because I have burned way more calories than I have eaten today.

Anyway. The sun begins to dip below the horizon. The view is magical, and the idea of staying a little longer to enjoy the cold and rest my sore feet before dragging myself back to the bustle is tempting. But with evening settling in, it’s time to make my way to Dotonbori and have myself a meal.

Osaka Travel Basics

Timing

Osaka is a great year-round destination, but spring (March–April) is one of the best times to visit, especially for cherry blossoms at Osaka Castle.
Autumn (October–November) is another beautiful season, with colorful foliage in parks like Minoo Park.
Summer (June–August) is lively with festivals like Tenjin Matsuri, though it can be hot and humid.
Winter (December–February) is milder than in northern Japan and perfect for enjoying Osaka’s comfort food like takoyaki and okonomiyaki.

Access

From Kansai International Airport: Several options are available from Kansai Airport Station to Osaka Station. The quickest is to take the JR Haruka Line, which costs JPY 2,940 one way and takes around 50 minutes. The cheapest option is to take the Kansaikuko Line, which costs JPY 1,210 one way and takes around 1 hour and 10 minutes.
From Kyoto: Take the JR Special Rapid Service from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station. One-way fare costs JPY 1,870 and takes around 30 minutes.

Transportation

Public Transportation: Osaka’s public transport system is efficient and easy to navigate. The Osaka Metro (subway) covers most of the city, and the JR trains are convenient for travel to other parts of Japan. A one-way subway ride costs JPY 180–400 depending on distance.
Osaka Amazing Pass: If you plan to explore a lot of attractions, consider the Osaka Amazing Pass, which offers unlimited rides on the subway, buses, and trams for JPY 2,800 (1-day pass) or JPY 3,600 (2-day pass). It also includes free entry to many attractions.

Accommodation

Guesthouse mii is a budget-friendly hostel with a central location. JPY 3,000 per night for a bed in a mixed dormitory, with private rooms from JPY 6,000 to 8,000 per night.
Hotel Granvia Osaka is a comfortable and well-located hotel inside Osaka Station. JPY 12,000 to 20,000 per night, depending on room type and season.
The St. Regis Osaka offers top-end accommodations with exceptional service and views of the city. From JPY 50,000 per night, higher for suites or peak seasons.

Food

Known as “Japan’s Kitchen,” the city is a haven for food lovers, and exploring its culinary landscape is just as exciting as visiting its famous landmarks. Whether you’re digging into takoyaki from Bijou or enjoying okonomiyaki in Chibo, there’s always something delicious to discover.

For more practical information, visit the Osaka tourism official website.

The Tourist Gaze