Bud Bongao: We Conquered the Highest Peak of Tawi-Tawi and Here’s What It Taught Me

The sun hangs low over Bongao, casting a golden glow across the mountain trail that beckons us to climb. It’s late afternoon, just past 4:20 p.m., and as I stand at the foot of Bud Bongao—Tawi-Tawi’s iconic peak and sacred sentinel—I wonder if my 40-year-old legs can still carry me to the top.

Our group is starting our hike at the foot of the mountain, gathered at the registration center. We’re a blend of seasoned adventurers: teachers from Tondo, a SPED teacher from Antipolo, a travel vlogger, and our cheerful guide, “Sir Bas,” as we affectionately call him. Earlier that day, we have explored the understated charms and coastal bustle of Bongao town, the provincial capital that serves as both gateway and cultural epicenter of Tawi-Tawi; now, it’s time to tackle its iconic peak.

The air is warm, a perfect late afternoon for a trek, though I can’t ignore the feeling of weariness tugging at me. I haven’t had a proper hike in years, and even though the day’s excitement has kept me going, I’m still running on fumes after not getting enough sleep. (My trip to Tawi-Tawi involved a continuous journey from Manila with a lengthy layover at night in Zamboanga City, but not lengthy enough to warrant checking in at a hotel.) But as Sir Bas assures us, it’s “just 3,000 steps,” a number I assume will be easy to conquer with just a bit of effort.

The trail ahead is bathed in sunlight, and the golden hour enhances the rugged beauty of the mountain. There’s palpable energy in the air as we begin to make our way up, with the idea of witnessing the scenic views on the summit urging us forward.

The trail stretches ahead, steadily uphill, a mix of both paved pathways and rougher, rocky patches. It’s not the most challenging terrain, but the continuous ascent begins to take its toll. Handrails and rest huts are scattered along the way, offering a brief respite for those who need it. Some of the steps are higher than others, and every now and then, the path flattens out, offering a short break before the incline picks up again.

The trail begins under the Bud Bongao Forest Park arch, a gateway into Tawi-Tawi’s most sacred peak.

Our group starts the steady climb, with the paved trail easing us into the journey ahead.

A reminder from the trail itself: “Go lang nang go! Kaya mo ’yan!” (“Just keep going! You can do it!”)

As I push on, the group begins to thin out. At first, I see two of the teachers from Tondo—Charity and Krystel—along with Zhan, the SPED teacher, and Joy, whose profession she doesn’t tell us. The rest of the group is no longer within sight, and I wonder if they’ve stopped to catch their breath, turned back, or pushed ahead. It’s tempting to stop for a longer rest, but the feeling of exhaustion creeping in is a reminder that I need to keep moving forward, no matter how slow the pace.

My hiking companions are a mix of seasoned adventurers and casual trekkers, each with their own approach to the climb. Krystel, in particular, stands out. An avid hiker with plans for a future Mount Apo expedition, her experience is clear from the start. Her body, lean and strong from years of trekking, shows she has what it takes. However, as the climb goes on, Krystel seems to slow down, possibly to stay in pace with Charity, who is just behind. Meanwhile, Zhan and I keep a steady pace, leading the group.

As for me, I’m not exactly dressed for a professional hike. I’m wearing the loose shirt I haven’t had the chance to change since leaving Manila and a pair of walking shorts. For footwear, I only have my Crocs. Not the ideal choice for a mountain climb, but they’re doing the job, surprisingly enough.

Earlier, Sir Bas had mentioned that we could buy bananas at the store at the foot of the mountain to feed to the macaques. Yet, no one in our group bought any. So, when the macaques start approaching us, I feel a little unprepared. Fortunately, they aren’t aggressive. The monkeys seem to take one look at us and quickly realize we’re empty-handed. With a slight air of frustration, they start to retreat, their curiosity waning as quickly as it appeared.

More than simply a physical challenge, Bud Bongao holds significant cultural and spiritual meaning for the locals. As a revered site, it’s considered a sacred mountain to the Tausug people of Tawi-Tawi, with many treating the summit as a place for prayer and reflection. There’s a sense of connection to the land as we trek upward. The mountain is also seen as a symbol of spiritual ascent, and with each step, there’s an underlying feeling that we’re treading in a place that holds deep respect in the hearts of the locals.

Halfway up, we catch our breath and glimpse the sea, a hint of the views waiting at the top.

Near the summit, we meet one of Bud Bongao’s macaques, a curious but cautious resident.

At the summit shrine, baggut ribbons flutter, tied by pilgrims offering prayers and wishes.

A few minutes more, and we finally reach the summit. The view is breathtaking: the golden-hour sunlight bathes the landscape in a soft, warm glow as the sun slowly dips toward the horizon. From up here, the surrounding islands of Tawi-Tawi are visible, scattered like jewels in the vast expanse of blue ocean.

It’s been years since I last pushed myself physically in this way. I turned 40 this year, and since then, I’ve slowly started feeling all the physical limitations of being in this age. Bud Bongao isn’t really a major climb; at 342 meters, it’s basically a hill in comparison to other peaks. But looking down at the path I’ve just conquered, I realize this climb is also about rediscovering that sense of adventure, the one I started tucking away in recent years as traveling became seen from a different lens, where comfort often took precedence over challenge.

Growth often comes when we step outside of the familiar, and sometimes, it’s not just the physical strength we gain but the mental and emotional resilience. Climbing Bud Bongao, I felt a renewed sense of determination. Even in the brink of exhaustion, it’s the thought of getting to the top that pushed me forward, more than just the view itself. (Okay, I admit, my pride also played a role—I can’t let the teachers see me huffing and puffing like the middle-aged man that I actually am.) In a way, ascending this summit is the continuation of embracing new challenges, both in travel and in life.

From the summit, Bongao town and the ocean stretch far and wide, a view worth the climb.

An alternative viewpoint gives us another sweeping angle, with the ocean shimmering beyond Bongao’s coastline.

Our group poses at the Bud Bongao summit marker — tired legs and all, but sharing the triumph.

Most of us make it to the top and take a few minutes to appreciate the views and catch our breath. We wait for the others to join us, but after some time, we realize they haven’t reached the summit. So, we start our descent. That’s when we encounter Sir Bas, making his way toward us. He informs us that another viewpoint awaits a bit down the mountain, where the rest of the group has decided to settle. We follow him.

The other viewpoint offers just as stunning a vista, a different perspective of the mountain and the surrounding area. It’s a perfect way to cap off our hike, taking it all in before we head down. Of course, we make sure to take a group photo by the “Bud Bongao” sign to commemorate the experience before descending. It feels like a fitting way to seal the moment.

Conquering a summit is always worth it—whether for the view or the validation that at any point in life, we’re still capable of more than we think.

Bud Bongao Hiking Basics

Timing

The best time to hike Bud Bongao is in the late afternoon, around 3:30 to 4:30 p.m. Starting at this hour lets you avoid the harsh midday sun while reaching the summit just in time for golden hour views over Tawi-Tawi’s islands.
The dry months (roughly December to May) offer clearer skies and less slippery trails, but the mountain can be hiked year-round with caution during the rainy season.

Access

Bud Bongao is located on Bongao Island, Tawi-Tawi’s capital. Most visitors experience the hike as part of a packaged tour, often bundled with other Tawi-Tawi highlights.
For independent travelers, reaching the base is straightforward: tricycles from anywhere in Bongao town proper can take you to the Bud Bongao registration center at the foot of the mountain. A ride from the airport costs around PHP 100 – 150 one way, and usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

Admission

Before starting the hike, all visitors must register at the Bud Bongao base. As of May 2025, the registration fee is PHP 20 per person. This small fee helps maintain the trail and supports local conservation efforts.
Note that registration is open only from 6:00 to 8:00 a.m. If you plan to trek independently in the afternoon, make sure you have already registered in the morning.

Safety

Wear shoes with good traction (even though Crocs surprisingly held up for me!). Most of the trail is paved, but some can be rocky and uneven.
Bring water—there are no refilling stations along the trail.
Macaques are common along the trail. They are generally non-aggressive but may approach if they sense food. Keep snacks securely packed and avoid feeding them other than bananas sold in the store at the base.
The trail can get slippery after rain. Start earlier if the forecast shows afternoon showers.

Bud Bongao is a sacred mountain to the Tausug. Avoid loud noise, littering, or any disruptive behavior. Local guides (such as those from Layag Tawi-Tawi Tours) are optional but highly recommended if you want added context about the mountain’s cultural importance and flora and fauna.

The Tourist Gaze