The afternoon feels heavy over Paseo del Mar, with gray clouds hanging low and close, looking like they might rain any minute now. On my table sits a plastic cup of knickerbocker—a Zamboanga dessert layered with fruit, gelatin, and ice cream—vibrant against the dull day. A nice sea breeze drifts in, bringing that salty ocean smell and playfully tugging at my shirt hem. Excited voices are buzzing around me, mostly from students easing into the late afternoon. Their chatter blends with the sound of waves crashing against the breakwater.
I just walked out of Fort Pilar Museum, and those dim galleries and old stone walls are still hanging around in my mind. I’m just taking a quick breather before I rush back to the airport for my flight home to Manila.
Ten years ago, I was in this same city under different skies. Back then, I wasn’t alone—I was younger, in the company of female friends. We strolled around, taking it all in, like we had all the time in the world and the days wouldn’t fly by like they usually do.
It was just a couple of days before Christmas. The trip started out from a plan that didn’t really go as expected. But what popped up instead was something simpler: a five-day getaway put together with a friend and her friends from a nearby seminary.
I arrived feeling curious and relaxed, having done barely any research and not expecting much at all. My hosts welcomed me into their lives without any fuss. We belted out karaoke until the early hours, strolled through malls and markets, took our time over coffee and iced tea, and enjoyed some laid-back photo walks.
It wasn’t about what we did, but how it felt. Being in an unfamiliar place, surrounded by so much kindness, felt closer to God — to what is pure and part of the natural order of things. At 30, I cruised through those days with a bit of naivety and an open heart, holding onto a faith that felt stable.
Most of my companions at that time have since moved on—getting married, relocating to new homes, starting new chapters.
And almost ten years later, here I am again—a bit older, more traveled, and definitely more experienced. The belief I used to hold has turned into something a bit more subtle and complex. My sense of wonder is still intact, but it’s tempered by experience and anchored more in secular kindness than spiritual certainty.
This time, I returned to Zamboanga not as a guest in someone else’s story, but as a traveler coming back from Tawi-Tawi and its far-flung corners. After peeling myself away from the group I was with, the joys feel different now — a quick trip to the museum, the familiar sea breeze at Paseo del Mar, and a lone knickerbocker sitting on the table.
No shared moments, just lots of room to think things over. Quieter surroundings, but more appreciation. The day might carry a loner’s flavor, but it’s satisfying all the same.
But maybe that’s what it’s all about. Progress isn’t always about moving ahead or doing something great. Sometimes you just have to come back around. Sometimes, it’s about going back to spots you’ve already checked out, but seeing them in a whole new way. That’s why the best stories in the Marvel Cinematic Universe after Endgame aren’t the ones diving into parallel universes, but the ones that really dig into the feelings, motivations, and connections of their street-level heroes.
Zamboanga City’s streets are pretty much the same. The tricycles keep rolling by, the sea breeze still brings that briny air, and at Paseo del Mar, students are hanging out in groups, their laughter floating up over the seawall. But I’ve changed since then.
A decade changes more than just the dates on a calendar. Travel buddies have moved on to new chapters in their lives; plans have changed. What used to feel like an exciting adventure now just seems like something I already know. Back in the day, I was on the lookout for connection and meaning. And then I’ve started to notice how different places connect with me: the patience of a slow afternoon, the gift of solitude that doesn’t feel empty, and the grace of knowing that coming full circle is its own reward.
This return isn’t about going after the past; it’s more about recognizing what’s still here and what’s grown stronger over time.
Back at the table, I wrap up the last spoonful of the knickerbocker, its sweet chill cutting through the heavy afternoon air.
Before long, I’ll be sharing stories from the far southern places I reached on this trip—farther than I ever imagined going all those years ago. This return is all about going back to what we know, but it also shows that every place, no matter how well we know it, no matter how familiar, holds a horizon of its own. And it can change with each new chapter of life.
Paseo del Mar & Fort Pilar, Zamboanga City Travel Basics
Access
- Located next to each other along the coast of Zamboanga City, both Paseo del Mar and Fort Pilar are easily accessible via tricycle or taxi. It’s a short drive from most of the central hotels and attractions. Both are well-known landmarks, so drivers will be familiar with the location.
Admission
- There are no entrance fees for both Paseo del Mar and Fort Pilar, as both are public spaces. However, for the latter, you would need to register before entering and have to leave your bags at the counter at the fort entrance.
Accommodation
- Zamboanga City offers a variety of accommodations ranging from budget-friendly inns to mid-range hotels. A well-known midrange hotel near the airport, Garden Orchid Hotel offers comfort and convenience with spacious rooms, an outdoor pool, and a restaurant serving local and international dishes. It’s a great base for exploring Zamboanga. PHP 2,500 – 4,000 per night.
- Also located near the airport, L’ Meridian Suites offers modern rooms, an on-site restaurant and bar, and convenient access to key attractions. Perfect for those flying in or out of Zamboanga. PHP 2,000 – 3,500 per night.
- A budget-friendly option near Zamboanga City Hall and Paseo del Mar, Ever O Business Hotel provides clean, basic accommodations. Ideal for travelers on a tight budget, offering easy access to the city center. PHP 900 – PHP 1,500 per night.
Food
- You’ll find plenty of food stalls and casual eateries around Paseo del Mar, offering local delicacies like the famous knickerbocker, seafood dishes, and sweet treats.
- Nearby, Jimmy’s Satti Haus is a local favorite for authentic satti, skewered grilled meat served with a flavorful dipping sauce, offering a quick and satisfying bite (PHP 50 – 150).
- If you’re willing to go a bit farther (and spend more), it’s well-worth seeking out Alavar Seafood Restaurant. The restaurant is known for its rich flavors and signature Alavar’s Crab. Ideal for a special meal, this spot is a must-try for those seeking to indulge in Zamboanga’s unique seafood dishes (PHP 400 – 800).
Check the Facebook page of National Museum-Fort Pilar for schedule of temporary exhibits and other seasonal activities.
The Tourist Gaze 