The Tourist Gaze

A Traveling Outsider Looking In

Revitalized Manila: A 70s-Style Photowalk From Pasig River Esplanade to Intramuros and Back

Model Mary Grace sitting at a table in Pasig River Esplanade with the Binondo Bridge in the background

Starting the Photowalk: Pasig River Esplanade

Long gone are the days when Manila’s Pasig River was dismissed as little more than a forgotten waterway, choked by pollution and neglect. Today, thanks to rehabilitation efforts that gained momentum in the late 2010s, the city’s renewed spirit flows along its banks, and nowhere is this transformation more vibrant than on the Pasig River Esplanade. Stretching alongside once-industrial zones and colonial-era buildings, this riverside promenade has become a symbol of urban revival—home to pop-up cafés, weekend markets, joggers, cyclists, and young people out for a stroll. With skyline views, art installations, and a growing sense of community, the Esplanade is where locals and visitors come to rediscover the soul of Manila, set to the rhythm of the river’s current.

Mary Grace posing under the arch of a bridge at Pasig River Esplanade
Old meets new beneath the bridges of the Pasig River Esplanade, proof that Manila is learning to embrace its river again.

The Pasig River Esplanade marks the starting point of this photowalk with Mary Grace, the model for this shoot and a certified Manileña. Tucked just behind the fire-ravaged old Manila Post Office, the Esplanade is quickly becoming a preferred spot to escape Manila’s traffic-choked streets. It’s a place where people can spend a leisurely afternoon walking, people-watching, or sipping coffee as the river calmly flows nearby.

I wanted to do this shoot with a 70s theme, mainly because I’m a sucker for retro aesthetics, but also because the decade was pivotal for Manila. It was a time of struggle, bold styles, and cultural shifts, traces of which still can be found in the city’s streets and structures. Today’s revitalized Manila feels like it’s tapping into that same spirit of reinvention, reclaiming old spaces and breathing new life into them.

It’s Been Raining in Manila: Escaping the Drizzle at the National Museum of Fine Arts

Mary Grace posing in front of the National Museum of Fine Arts in Manila
The National Museum stands tall as Manila’s love letter to its own creative past.
Mary Grace posing in front of the Spoliarium at the National Museum of Fine Arts
No National Museum visit is complete without stopping by Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, a mural that continues to reflect the country’s long fight for dignity.
Mary Grace looking at an artwork inside the National Museum of Fine Arts
Tinitigan ko, nilapitan ko: Inside the museum, history stares back at you through the artworks on the walls.

We planned to head next to Escolta, but the overcast sky keeps spitting light rain, so I had to adjust our route. Instead, we make our way to the National Museum of Fine Arts. It’s a fitting alternative, as the museum itself stands as a symbol of Manila’s revival. Once home to the old Legislative Building, it now houses a rich collection of Filipino art, from Amorsolo’s golden-hued portraits to Hidalgo’s sweeping historical canvases.

Inside, the halls are filled with teenagers wandering past towering sculptures and posing before larger-than-life murals. The lighting is soft, the parquet floors squeak under our feet, and despite the crowds, the place feels a world away from the honking chaos outside.

What makes this museum feel especially vital now is not just what hangs on its walls, but what it represents—a city investing in its cultural memory and creative future. Restoration projects like this show how Manila is beginning to take care of its soul again. Even in the rain, it feels like a good place to begin.

A Café Break In Intramuros

Mary Grace holding a cup of coffee with the walls of Café Y Ruedas in the background
Café Y Ruedas, a new coffee place in Intramuros, blends history with some modern comforts.
Mary Grace drinking coffee with the Intramuros golf course in the background
From the café, it’s easy to forget the traffic outside, especially with the Intramuros golf course rolling gently by.

When we have had our fill of the museum, we step outside and cross Padre Burgos Avenue, heading toward Intramuros. By then, the drizzle has picked up, so we take brief refuge at Café Y Ruedas, a charming new coffee shop tucked within the ramparts of the Walled City. The café is run by the same team behind Bambike Ecotours, a social enterprise known for its bamboo bicycles and guided bike tours through Manila’s historic districts.

Bambike has long been part of the city’s grassroots movement toward sustainable tourism and heritage appreciation. Their tours encourage people to experience the city at a slower pace, on handcrafted bikes that support local artisans. Café Y Ruedas feels like a natural extension of that mission—a space where locals and travelers can rest from walking, dry off, and continue engaging with Intramuros as a living, breathing part of a revamped Manila.

Mary Grace posing by a stone wall in Intramuros, Manila
The walls of Intramuros have seen the Spanish empire rise and fall, yet here they stand, providing space for random shoots.
Mary Grace sitting on a wall with a dorm featuring vintage architecture in the background
Vintage dormitories around Intramuros remind one of Manila’s layered architecture.
Mary Grace posing on one of Intramuros' walls, with lush trees in the background
Pockets of green can be found in the Walled City, providing places to breathe in the heart of Manila.

As for Intramuros itself, the Walled City has long stood as a symbol of Manila’s colonial past, but in recent years, it’s also become a beacon of the city’s revitalization. Once neglected and overrun by parking spaces and decaying structures, the area has steadily been reimagined as a pedestrian-friendly cultural hub. Clean, walkable paths now wind through restored walls, landscaped parks, and museums that celebrate Filipino heritage.

This revival ties seamlessly into the idea of a city not content with simply building new infrastructure. The connection between the Intramuros restoration, the expanding Pasig River Esplanade, and the growing pedestrian zones signals a city attempting to balance memory and movement. Walking through Intramuros today feels less like stepping into a relic and more like participating in a Manila that’s eager to reclaim its riverbanks, its plazas, and its cultural spaces, not just for tourists, but for its own people.

We manage to squeeze in a few shots along its walls, but decide not to push through with visiting Fort Santiago or other nearby sites. Instead, we follow Muralla Street, making our way back to the Pasig River Esplanade near the newly constructed Binondo–Intramuros Bridge.

Returning to the Esplanade: Manila’s Riverside Revival

Mary Grace walking along the Pasig River Esplanade with the Binondo–Intramuros Bridge in the background
The new Binondo–Intramuros Bridge connects old and new Manila together, a literal and symbolic link across time.
Mary Grace sitting at a table at the Pasig River Esplanade
Along the Esplanade, Manila moves at a gentler pace.

The Binondo–Intramuros Bridge is one of the more visible signs of Manila’s changing landscape. Opened in 2022, it was designed to ease traffic congestion between the historic districts of Binondo and Intramuros, while also providing pedestrians and cyclists easier access across the river. Its sleek, modern design stands in contrast to the centuries-old walls nearby, but rather than feeling out of place, it serves as a physical and symbolic link between old and new Manila—a city slowly stitching together its past and future.

When we reach the Esplanade again, the drizzle has finally let up, leaving the pathways slick but shimmering under the soft afternoon light. Walking along the riverside, it’s easy to feel the pulse of a city trying to write a better story for itself.

For decades, the Pasig River was a symbol of decay—polluted, abandoned, and forgotten. But now, with each food stall popping up and each visitor strolling in this stretch of the Esplanade, it’s becoming more evident how Manila is reclaiming not just its riverbanks, but its future. Sure, the waters of the river are still murky and smell like fart when the breeze blows, but the Esplanade nonetheless stands as proof that even the most neglected pockets of the city can find new life. Manila doesn’t need to turn its back on the past to face the future; it only needs to weave its history into the places where people gather, have fun, and dream of better days ahead.

Modeled by Mary Grace Tuyor

Central Manila Travel Basics

Access

  • To get to the Pasig River Esplanade, start near the Manila Central Post Office, which is the easiest landmark to pin.
    • The nearest train stop is LRT-1 Central Terminal Station (about a 10-minute walk).
    • You can also get there via jeepneys or UV Express vans headed to Lawton (Liwasang Bonifacio).
    • If you’re coming from Binondo, simply cross the Binondo–Intramuros Bridge on foot to reach the Esplanade.
  • To get to Intramuros:
    • Cross Padre Burgos Avenue from the National Museum / Luneta area. From the Pasig River Esplanade, it’s walkable via Muralla Street.
    • You can also take a pedicab or cross the Binondo–Intramuros Bridge if you’re coming from the north side.
    • Jeepneys going to Pier or Lawton often pass by its gates.
  • The National Museum of Fine Arts is located along Padre Burgos Avenue, right across the street from Intramuros and near the Manila City Hall.
    • The LRT-1 United Nations Avenue Station is the closest train stop (a short walk away).
    • Jeepneys passing through Taft Avenue and Lawton also stop nearby.

Admission

  • Pasig River Esplanade: Free and open to the public.
  • National Museum of Fine Arts: Free admission for all visitors (make sure to bring an ID). Note that the museum, along with the nearby National Museum of Anthropology and National Museum of National History, is closed on Mondays.
  • Intramuros: Free to enter the Walled City, but some attractions like Fort Santiago have entrance fees (PHP 75; PHP 50 for students).

Food

  • Ilustrado Restaurant (Intramuros) – A heritage dining spot offering classic Filipino-Spanish fare in a charming old-world atmosphere. Try the paella or callos for a true taste of tradition.
  • Patio de Conchita (Intramuros) – An affordable, canteen-style eatery that’s popular with locals. It serves a wide variety of Filipino home-cooked meals, perfect for a casual, no-frills lunch.
  • Pop-up eats along the Pasig River Esplanade – On weekends and some afternoons, pop-up stalls appear along the Esplanade for some riverside quick bites. You’ll often find street food like fish balls, kwek-kwek, shawarma, and iced drinks.

Cafés

  • Café Y Ruedas (Intramuros) – A laid-back coffee spot opened by the people behind Bambike Ecotours, fitting beautifully into Intramuros’ walls.
  • Papakape (Intramuros) – A café inside Fort Santiago that captures the area’s laid-back, community-driven spirit. They serve solid brews and occasional specialty drinks, making it a great pit stop during your walk. They also have a pop-up store in the Esplanade.
  • The Den (Escolta) – If you make it across Pasig River and to Escolta, this café is a creative hub that doubles as a gallery space. It serves locally sourced coffee and often hosts small art events.

For guided tours and other travel services in Intramuros, you can check out the official Intramuros Administration website for schedules, tour options, and cultural events. They often partner with local guides and groups to offer walking tours, Bambike tours, and heritage experiences.

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