Filipino cuisine is as diverse as the archipelago itself, with each region offering its own distinct flavors, techniques, and history. Filipinos can be very passionate about it: recently, I came across this heated debate on Threads about Filipino cuisine. Let’s just say the thread unraveled into a full-blown cultural tug-of-war.
This reminded me of a post I wrote more than a decade ago, when I attempted to trace the Philippines’ culinary map through an extensive food crawl, covering each region of the Philippines. However, I unpublished that post for reasons I won’t detail here, haha. Besides, many of the eateries I featured there have since shuttered (not to mention a new region has been created and another one renamed).
So I decided to do it again. This updated, more intentional version picks up where that old project left off. Broken into three parts—Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao—this food crawl doesn’t require hopping on a plane or ferry. Instead, I go looking within Metro Manila, where every region of the country has left its culinary mark. From humble carinderias to elegant restaurants and long-standing local institutions, these places serve as windows into the regional soul of the Philippines.
Being a melting pot, Metro Manila is teeming with favorites from all corners of the country—you just have to know where to look.
For this Independence Month, we begin with Luzon’s diverse dishes, many of which have long found their way into the Filipino mainstream.
National Capital Region: Pancit Malabon at Belen’s Kitchenette
Metro Manila’s cuisine is as complex and fast-paced as the region itself. Its regional specialties are products of migrations from the provinces and local spins on foreign influences, not to mention urban comfort food shaped by decades of movement and reinvention. The food scene here tells the story of a capital that never stays still. You’ll find everything from heirloom-style adobo being served inside family-run kitchens in the heart of Manila to the latest culinary import sold by a hip stall in a trendy food park.
But among those that remain a favorite in this ever-evolving culinary capital is Pancit Malabon. Born in the eponymous city in northern Metro Manila, the dish is prepared using stir-fried rice noodles mixed with fish sauce and crab fat and, owing to Malabon’s coastal position, contains toppings that draw heavily from the sea: shrimp, squid, and oysters. Hard-boiled eggs, as well as pork are often added. One of the best places to get a taste is Belen’s Kitchenette, a modest eatery tucked in, well, Malabon. Known to locals for its rich pancit and no-frills vibe, Belen’s serves up a plate that serves as a reminder that some of the best flavors in the region are still found in its unassuming nooks.
Belen’s Kitchenette formerly Rosy’s Pancit Malabon
45 A. Bonifacio St., Flores, Malabon 1470
(02) 8351 0150
Official Facebook page
Cordillera Administrative Region: Mixed Greens & Strawberries Vinaigrette Salad at Old Baguio Heritage Café and Restaurant
The cuisine of the Cordillera region is hearty and grounded in tradition, both hallmarks of the highland lifestyle. While meat-based dishes like etag and pinikpikan often take centerstage, the region’s fertile mountains also produce some of the freshest vegetables and fruits in the country. Baguio, long regarded as the heart of the Cordilleras, is not only a cultural crossroads but also a culinary gateway to the highlands. And what says Baguio more than strawberries?
In Quezon City, Old Baguio Heritage Cafe and Restaurant along Kalayaan Avenue offers a thoughtfully curated taste of the highlands in an urban setting. Their Mixed Greens & Strawberries Vinaigrette Salad is a light and refreshing standout, made with produce sourced straight from Benguet. While items here are on the pricier side, the cost reflects the extra care taken to source ingredients directly from the Cordilleras, supporting local farmers and preserving the authenticity of regional flavor.
Old Baguio Heritage Cafe and Restaurant
2F Kalayaan Centrepointe Bldg., Kalayaan Ave, corner V. Luna Ave, Diliman, Quezon City, 1101
0917 790 8823
Official Facebook page
Region I (Ilocos Region): Cheesy Ilocos Empanada at Lola’s Ilocos Empanada
The Ilocos Region, or Region I, is famed for its savory cuisine. The region’s dishes are rooted in local traditions shaped by both indigenous and Spanish influences. From the garlic-heavy bagnet to the earthy pinakbet, Ilocano food is known for being both flavorful and practical, often highlighting local produce and preserving techniques. One of the most popular street food staples from this region is the Ilocos empanada: a deep-fried, orange-hued rice flour pastry stuffed with grated green papaya, mung bean sprouts, egg, and longganisa—pork sausage seasoned with garlic and vinegar. It’s crispy, indulgent, and best eaten with a splash of native sukang Iloko (sugarcane vinegar).
Lola’s Ilocos Empanada in Sampaloc, Manila is a humble food stall that’s become a favorite among students and locals in the area. Their Cheesy Ilocos Empanada is a bestseller and doesn’t disappoint. The bright-orange shell has that signature crispness, giving way to a delicious mess of shredded green papaya, a runny egg, generous bits of homemade Batac-style longganisa, and melted cheese that brings a creamy saltiness to balance the tang of the vinegar dip. The place may have been kilometers away from Ilocos, but it tastes like it’s straight from the north.
Lola’s Ilocos Empanada
704 H. Ventura St., corner Fajardo St., Sampaloc, Manila 1008
(02) 8245 4124
Official Facebook page
Region II (Cagayan Valley): Lodi Pancit Batil Patung at Chie Chie’s Tuguegarao Pancit Batil Patung
Aside from its sprawling landscapes that appeal to adventurous travelers, the Cagayan Valley Region is also home to one of the most beloved noodle dishes in the country: batil patung. It’s a hearty, unapologetically indulgent plate of stir-fried miki (egg noodles) topped with ground meat, vegetables, and a fried egg. The dish gets its name from the egg often perched over the mountain of noodles (patung means “to put on top”). Typically served with chopped onions and vinegar for contrast, this Tuguegarao staple has found its way into eateries in Metro Manila, inspiring countless variations along the way.
One such spot is Chie Chie’s Tuguegarao Batil Patung in a corner of Makati hidden away from its more popular Central Business District. Unassuming and low-key, it draws in homesick Cagayeños and curious foodies alike. Their Lodi Batil Patung doesn’t hold back: miki noodles form the chewy foundation, layered with ground beef, rich slices of liver, fragrant fried garlic, crunchy karahay (crispy lechon pork belly), and savory chorizo. In Chie Chie’s version, the egg isn’t perched neatly on top like a crown; rather, it’s stealthily tucked just beneath the noodles. In a way, it still lives up to the name patung, though with its own interpretation.
Chie Chie’s Tuguegarao Pancit Batil Patung
1827 Dian Street, Makati 1235
0926 289 7909
Official Facebook page
Region III (Central Luzon): Bringhe at Susie’s Cuisine
Central Luzon is a fertile agricultural heartland of the Philippines and home to some of the country’s most treasured dishes. Influenced by its rich farmlands and strong Kapampangan heritage, the region is known for rich, savory flavors and meticulous cooking methods. Of course, everyone knows sisig, but another dish from this area is bringhe, a festive rice delicacy often described as the Filipino version of paella. Traditionally made with glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk, turmeric, and chicken or other meats, bringhe is commonly served during special occasions and reflects the Kapampangan flair for transforming humble ingredients into deeply flavorful dishes.
In Metro Manila, those craving for a taste of Kapampangan cuisine can simply take a 90-minute drive to San Fernando or Angeles for the real deal. But the capital itself does not lack options. One Kapampangan restaurant is Susie’s Cuisine along Tomas Morato in Quezon City, a well-known culinary institution from Pampanga and brings regional favorites to the city. Their Bringhe is moist and generously packed with chicken and vegetables, staying true to traditional preparation.
Susie’s Cuisine
Scout Bayoran Street, corner Tomas Morato Avenue, Diliman, Quezon City 1103
0951 915 6051
Official Facebook page
Region IV-A (Calabarzon): Bulalito at R&J Bulalohan
Calabarzon cuisine reflects both the rustic traditions and agricultural abundance of Southern Luzon. Composed of the provinces of Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, Rizal, and Quezon, the region brings together coastal flavors, coconut-rich stews, and hearty meat dishes rooted in both Tagalog heritage and Spanish influence. It’s where you’ll find pancit habhab eaten straight from banana leaves in Lucban, kesong puti from Santa Cruz, and buko pie sold along the streets of Cavite and Laguna. But perhaps no dish captures the soul of Calabarzon cooking quite like bulalo—a slow-simmered beef shank soup known for its rich bone marrow, clear broth, and tender meat that falls off the bone.
For a taste of this Batangas (and Tagaytay) favorite without leaving the city, head to R&J Bulalohan in Mandaluyong. Open 24/7 and beloved for its straightforward approach, R&J’s serves generous bowls of piping-hot bulalo loaded with tender beef and that prized litid (beef tendon). The smallest serving, Bulalito, is said to be good for one, but it can easily feed two or three. R&J gathers night owls, workers, and groups who are drawn to the warmth of a provincial staple in the heart of Metro Manila.
R&J Bulalohan
Annette, 602 Boni Avenue, Mandaluyong City 1550
(02) 8533 4811
Official Facebook page
Southwestern Tagalog Region (MIMAROPA): Adobong Manok sa Gata at Romulo Café
The cuisine of MIMAROPA—Mindoro, Marinduque, Romblon, and Palawan—is often understated in mainstream food tours, but the region’s dishes embody a deeply provincial soul. MIMAROPA is rooted in island life and rural tradition, so its foods are mostly defined by coastal ingredients, coconut-based cooking, and native delicacies passed down through generations. Their simplicity feels more personal.
One such dish is Adobong Manok sa Gata, a Marinduque variant of the iconic adobo enriched with coconut milk. It still delivers the familiar savory comfort of adobo, but the gata (coconut milk) softens the sharpness of vinegar, creating a richer, creamier version. For a Metro Manila take that honors its provincial roots while elevating its presentation, Romulo Café offers an elegant plate of this dish.
Romulo Café (Makati branch)
148 Jupiter Street, Makati 1209
0915 561 1888
Official website
Region V (Bicol Region): Bicol Express at Top Meal Food Haus
If there’s a region in the Philippines whose cuisine wears its identity loud and proud, it’s Bicol. Bicolano food is known for its unapologetic use of chili and gata, the latter especially present in almost everything from mains to desserts. Its dishes embrace contrast: creamy and spicy, earthy and sharp, humble in ingredients but confident in flavor. It’s a cuisine that knows exactly who it is.
No dish says “Bicol” more clearly than—duh—Bicol Express. It’s essentially a creamy stew with a kick: pork simmered in coconut milk and loaded with siling labuyo. Many restaurants in Metro Manila serve Bicol Express, but they’re often “sanitized” for less adventurous diners. Top Meal Food Haus, a tucked-away Bicolano restaurant near Power Plant Mall in Rockwell, serves a straightforward version closer to home. Here, the heat is real, and for a moment, you might think you’re somewhere in the vicinity of the Mayon.
Top Meal Food Haus
5994 Villena St, J.D. Villena St, Makati City 1210
(02) 8895 1249
Official Facebook page
Cover Photo: Pork Sisig with Egg at Aysee Ultra
Greasy, fatty, and unapologetically flavorful, pork sisig is one of the most iconic dishes in Filipino cuisine. Hailing from Pampanga, often dubbed the culinary capital of the Philippines, sisig began as a clever way to repurpose unused pig parts, particularly the cheeks, ears, and snout. These are boiled, grilled, and finely chopped before being tossed onto a sizzling plate, often with onions, calamansi juice, and chili peppers. A raw egg on top is actually optional but is now almost expected. Over time, sisig has evolved: some versions are crispy, others creamy; some are drowning in mayo, others purist and bare-bones. But at its heart, sisig remains a celebration of inventive Filipino cooking.
Aysee Ultra in Pasig—just outside the gates of the Philsports Arena (formerly Ultra)—is one of Metro Manila’s most beloved spots to get your sisig fix. Their pork sisig is affordable (PHP 200 per order, serves two), and it’s the exact opposite of gentrified: crispy, rough-chopped, aggressively savory, and unapologetically greasy in the best way. It’s been a longtime haunt for students, athletes, and nearby office workers looking for a reliable, flavor-packed lunch. No frills. Just pure, sizzling, old-school sisig.
Aysee
17 St. Martin Street, Pasig City 1605
0977 001 7077
Official Facebook page
The Tourist Gaze 