Filipino cuisine is as diverse as the archipelago itself, with each region offering its own distinct flavors, techniques, and history. Filipinos can be very passionate about it: recently, I came across this heated debate on Threads about Filipino cuisine. Let’s just say the thread unraveled into a full-blown cultural tug-of-war.
This reminded me of a post I wrote more than a decade ago, when I attempted to trace the Philippines’ culinary map through an extensive food crawl, covering each region of the Philippines. However, I unpublished that post for reasons I won’t detail here, haha. Besides, many of the eateries I featured there have since shuttered (not to mention a new region has been created and another one renamed).
So I decided to do it again. This updated, more intentional version picks up where that old project left off. Broken into three parts—Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao—this food crawl doesn’t require hopping on a plane or ferry. Instead, I go looking within Metro Manila, where every region of the country has left its culinary mark. From humble carinderias to elegant restaurants and long-standing local institutions, these places serve as windows into the regional soul of the Philippines.
Being a melting pot, Metro Manila is teeming with favorites from all corners of the country—you just have to know where to look.
In June, we started with dishes from each region in Luzon. Then in July, we continued with culinary fares from each region in Visayas. For Buwan ng Wika this August, we conclude this series with Mindanao, a region often overlooked in Metro Manila’s dining scene, yet bursting with flavors that show how Filipino cuisine speaks in many languages.
Region IX (Zamboanga Peninsula): Beef Satti at Palm Grill
The cuisine of the Zamboanga Peninsula is shaped by centuries of trade, migration, and close ties with the neighboring Bangsamoro region. Many of its dishes bear influences of Tausug, Sama-Banguingui, and even Malay culture. An example is curacha alavar, a spiced crab dish that’s often reserved for special occasions because of its price (but those who have tasted it swear by it). Something much more affordable but still undeniably “Zamboanga” is satti—skewered meats marinated in a blend of spices and served with a thick, slightly spicy peanut sauce. This dish illustrates the region’s deep Muslim culinary heritage and its connections with Southeast Asian neighbors. It’s a common street food in Tawi-Tawi and Zamboanga City, often enjoyed in early mornings or late afternoons.
In Metro Manila, one of the most dependable places to sample Zamboanga-style satay is Palm Grill in Tomas Morato, Quezon City. The restaurant specializes in the cuisine of Zambasulta—short for Zamboanga, Basilan, Sulu, and Tawi-Tawi—and offers Satti (choice of beef or chicken) that’s rich in flavor, served with thick peanut sauce and sticky rice, just as it would be in the south. Smaller, hole-in-the-wall satti eateries exist in places like Taguig and Fairview, but they can be unpredictable in terms of opening hours (as I found out during this food crawl). On the other hand, Palm Grill operates on more consistent hours (not to mention accredited by the Department of Tourism), so it’s a more reliable option for those craving this iconic dish.
Palm Grill: Authentic Southern Mindanaon Cuisine
179 Tomas Morato Ave, Diliman, Quezon City 1103
0908 180-4701
Official Facebook page
Region X (Northern Mindanao): Pineapple Bake Tart at Merced Bakeshop and Restaurant
When you think of regional cuisine in the Philippines, some places instantly bring a signature dish to mind, like how Bacolod is inseparable from chicken inasal, or Pampanga is proudly synonymous with sizzling sisig. But the culinary identity of Region 10, or Northern Mindanao, leans more into its abundant produce. Think lanzones of Camiguin or sprawling pineapple plantations of Bukidnon. The region is more about what grows on its land than about a specific iconic dish.
It’s hard to find a restaurant serving a Northern Mindanao dish per se, but you can catch a glimpse of that produce-driven identity at Merced Bakehouse and Restaurant, a cozy spot along EDSA near Quezon Avenue. Merced has long been known for its Filipino snacks and pastries, and their Pineapple Bake Tarts carry a hint of Bukidnon’s golden pineapples. Sometimes, a region’s flavor shows up as much in what it grows as in what it cooks.
Merced Bakehouse and Restaurant
869 Epifanio de los Santos Ave, Quezon City 1104
0925 524 2108
Official website
Region XI (Davao Region): DurianEspresso Ice Cream at FelChie’s
The culinary landscape of the Davao Region is a rich mosaic of influences. Indigenous Lumad, Muslim Mindanao, and Visayan dishes come together in one of the Philippines’ most agriculturally abundant regions. The area is known for its cacao, pomelo, seafood, and mountain-grown produce, but no fruit is more iconic to Davao than durian. Locals celebrate it as a point of pride, even if its pungent aroma and custard-like flesh split people into two camps: those who can’t get enough and those who’d rather stay away. But it’s deeply woven into everyday food life. You’ll find it sold fresh along roadside stalls or worked into candies and kakanin.
In Metro Manila, though, durian in its raw form is rare. Enter FelChie’s, a small-batch ice cream maker based along Aguirre Avenue in Parañaque City. Their standout flavor, DurianEspresso, blends mashed durian fruit with espresso coffee, mellowing the fruit’s sharpness without hiding the taste that makes it unique. The result is creamy and still very much durian, but in a way that even skeptics might try. Available in 5oz and pint sizes, it’s one of those finds that lets you enjoy a piece of Davao without leaving the city.
FelChie’s
318 A. Aguirre Ave, Parañaque 1720
0927 994 5194
Official website
Region XII (SOCCSKSARGEN): Tuna Sinigang at Mang Rudy’s Tuna Grill & Papaitan
The SOCCSKSARGEN region (sometimes shortened to Sox) is a fertile and diverse area in southern Mindanao composed of South Cotabato, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Sarangani, and General Santos. While the region boasts rich agricultural lands and a strong multicultural identity, it is best known in culinary circles for one thing: tuna. General Santos City, dubbed the “Tuna Capital of the Philippines,” plays host to a thriving fishing industry that supplies much of the country’s sashimi-grade tuna. From grilled tuna jaw (panga) to sizzling belly slabs and kinilaw made from the freshest cuts, tuna is a centerpiece of everyday meals and grand feasts in the region.
Fortunately, tuna lovers in Metro Manila have no shortage of options when it comes to tasting dishes inspired by Sox’s bounty. Several restaurants proudly highlight tuna in their menus, offering everything from grilled tuna belly to tuna sisig and sinigang. One such place is Mang Rudy’s Tuna Grill & Papaitan, whose main branch is in Makati, near Chino Roces Avenue. Known for its hearty and homey preparations, Mang Rudy’s serves a deeply savory Tuna Sinigang, which gives diners a taste of General Santos’ most iconic export.
Mang Rudy’s Tuna Grill & Papaitan
7483 Bagtikan Street, Makati 1203
(02) 7121 8099
Official Facebook page
Region XIII (Caraga): Sugba Kilaw at Gerry’s Grill
The Caraga Region may not have a singular, dominant culinary identity like some other regions in the Philippines, but it shares many flavors with the broader Mindanaoan and Visayan palate. One of the dishes associated with the region—especially popular in Siargao—is kinilaw, the Filipino version of ceviche, typically made with fresh fish cured in vinegar, calamansi, and other local aromatics. In some coastal towns, grilled meat or seafood is sometimes added to the mix in a variation called sinuglaw (a combination of sinugba and kinilaw), bringing together the smoky and the citrusy in one refreshing dish.
While kinilaw is easy to find in Metro Manila’s seafood and grill places, perhaps what gets closest to the southern version is Sugba Kilaw from Gerry’s Grill. The dish combines lightly grilled pork belly with cured fish slices, onions, ginger, and chili, echoing the island vibe even when you’re dining at a branch far from the coast. Gerry’s Grill, being a well-known restaurant chain, makes this Mindanaoan favorite more accessible to city diners while retaining the essence of its provincial roots.
Gerry’s Grill (Tomas Morato Avenue branch)
Tomas Morato Avenue, Corner Eugenio Lopez Jr. Dr, Quezon City 1103
(02) 8332 6353
Official website
Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao: Double Regular Pastil at Pastil Sa Tabi
The Bangsamoro region in Mindanao and the Muslim communities in areas like Danao boast a rich and diverse culinary heritage. Dishes such as tiula itum (a black soup made with burnt coconut and spices) and pianggang (chicken cooked in coconut milk and charcoal-roasted) are just some examples of the unique offerings in the region. But one of the widely consumed dishes is pastil, a deceptively simple meal consisting of steamed rice topped with shredded and spiced meat, usually chicken or beef, wrapped in banana leaves. Its affordability and satisfying taste make it a staple in many Bangsamoro households and marketplaces.
Pastil has gained popularity in Metro Manila in recent years, especially among students and office workers looking for a quick and budget-friendly meal. Its rise has led to the mushrooming of affordable eateries and food stalls across the city, many of them offering pastil for as low as 25 pesos per serving. One establishment frequently mentioned in online reviews is Pastil sa Tabi. Its main branch in Sampaloc near the University Belt is widely considered one of the best places to sample pastil in the capital, with its generous portions and well-seasoned fillings. The Double Regular Pastil is priced at just PHP 41, offering a filling meal without breaking the budget.
Pastil sa Tabi (main branch)
2315 San Anton Street, Sampaloc, Manila 1008
0908 890-0611
Official Facebook page
Cover Photo: Tuna Sisig at Dampaseatos
Tuna sisig highlights the strong seafood influence in Mindanaoan cuisine, particularly in coastal cities like General Santos, known as the “Tuna Capital of the Philippines.” In Mindanao, where fresh catch is abundant, tuna has evolved from a mere commodity to a cultural staple. Unlike the more commonly known pork sisig from Pampanga, Mindanao’s take on sisig often features tuna, which reflects the region’s deep ties to the sea. The dish typically combines diced tuna with onions, chilies, and calamansi. It’s often served sizzling to allow the flavors to intensify as it reaches the table.
Tuna sisig is relatively rare in Metro Manila, where most seafood sisig variants lean heavily towards bangus (milkfish). Dampaseatos is one of the few places where diners can enjoy this Mindanao-inspired dish without traveling far south. The restaurant, which focuses on a variety of fresh seafood dishes, offers Tuna Sisig (PHP 448) as a savory alternative to the more common pork and bangus versions. The dish is a refreshing option for those eager to explore regional flavors beyond the usual.
Dampaseatos (UN Avenue branch)
Unit 1D YKM Center, United Nations Avenue cor. Alhambra St, Ermita, Manila 1000
0927 743 2090
Official Facebook page
The Tourist Gaze 