Balik Pulau, literally “the back of the island,” is Penang’s tranquil counterpoint to bustling George Town. Tucked away on the island’s western side, it offers a slower, rural pulse that feels worlds apart from the UNESCO-listed heritage core. The town itself is modest, with low-rise shophouses, a small market, and old coffee shops that still bind daily life. Yet it’s the surroundings that draw visitors: sprawling paddy fields, fruit orchards, and winding roads that cut through rolling hills. This is where Penang shows its agricultural roots: before heritage tourism and high-rises, the island thrived on farming and fishing.
Cycling tours have become popular, as these allow visitors to weave through the countryside with occasional sea views opening up toward the Strait of Malacca. I join a bike tour on my third day in Penang with a group of about twelve people, hoping to see the quieter, rural side of the island while also getting back on a bike. I haven’t ridden regularly since the pandemic, and with my recent gym sessions to shed some weight, biking on vacation feels like an excellent fit.
It’s still dark when the car that would take me to the starting point of the tour pulls up outside my hotel a little past seven in the morning. Malaysia shares the same time zone as the Philippines, but geographically it sits further west, so the sun rises later than what I’m used to back home. At that hour, the streets of George Town feels more like pre-dawn than early morning, and I slip into the car still half-dazed. Inside, I’m introduced to the driver and a family of four visiting from the US, though their roots are Asian (the dad, I think, is Indonesian).
The ride to Balik Pulau takes us out of the city and into highways that slide past rolling hills. After about forty minutes, we arrive at Audi Dream Farm, the starting point of our cycling tour. Here we meet our guide, who introduces himself as TC—“short for Tom Cruise,” he jokes with a grin. He isn’t exactly the action-hero figure the name conjures, but his easygoing energy and sense of humor sets the tone for the morning.
Our little tour group turns out to be a lively mix: the family I rode with earlier, another Asian family of three, a Filipino couple I mentally dub Binondo Boy and Cavite Girl (because I don’t get their names), a Japanese solo traveler, and an older American who carries himself like a seasoned globetrotter. After we each get a bike from the site’s bike racks, TC gathers us in a small clearing near the gate, where he gives a quick orientation. We then start the ride into Balik Pulau.
We start off along a narrow dirt road, flanked on both sides by tall grass and shrubs, until it opens to a river running quietly beside the path. TC calls our attention to a large monitor lizard strolling on the opposite bank. We pause to watch, and a moment later it slips into the water, gliding smoothly as if to show off its swimming skills.
“There are plenty of monitor lizards around here,” TC explains. “Sometimes you’ll even sense monkeys nearby. If you see branches shaking, that means they’re up there watching us.” He assures us, though, that while the place is teeming with lizards, there are no crocodiles in these parts. In other words, safe for us even if we somehow fall into the river.
Not long after, we find ourselves cycling through a vast stretch of palm trees. At first, it just looks like a regular grove, but TC explains that this is actually part of a palm oil plantation. Palm oil is one of Malaysia’s biggest agricultural industries, and Penang, though better known for electronics and tourism, still has its share of small plantations like this.
TC tells us that farmers usually earn around 1 MYR for every kilo of palm fruit, which they harvest roughly every 20 days, about twice a month. That means the actual harvesting days are relatively few, but the rest of the month doesn’t exactly mean rest, as farmers often take on other jobs to make ends meet.
Unsurprisingly, fewer young Malaysians are choosing this line of work. Many prefer office jobs, and in Penang especially, a large number enter the semiconductor industry, another economic powerhouse here. In Malaysia in general, agriculture may still have deep roots, but the younger generation is increasingly planting their future in the modern industry, illustrating the inevitable change in the country’s workforce.
Our next stop is near one of the entrances to Penang National Park. TC tells us this area leads to a turtle sanctuary, but since it isn’t hatching season, there isn’t much to see. We only reach the office, which is closed today, and TC points out a small docking area used by local fishermen. It’s Sunday, so no boats are going out; besides, with the high tide, they couldn’t leave even if they wanted to, as low tide is needed to pass through the narrow channel to the open sea.
While we stand there, TC shifts gears and talks about Malaysia’s system of subsidies. Unlike in many countries where subsidies are minimal or highly targeted, Malaysia has long used them to keep daily life more affordable, covering essentials like fuel, rice, cooking oil, and even certain utilities. These subsidies, while helpful for ordinary Malaysians, also shape how industries and local economies function.
Hearing about policy in the middle of a quiet coastal park on a lazy weekend morning feels oddly incongruous, yet surprisingly engaging. In the Philippines, subsidies are fewer, and those that exist are narrower in scope and often hotly debated. Hearing TC explain how Malaysia handles them gives me both a glimpse into daily Malaysian life and a mirror reflecting the gaps back home.
Not long after, we roll into a small town where we are scheduled to have our morning snack. TC gives us a few minutes to explore the area, so we wander around on foot. It really has that small-town vibe, with quiet streets, traditional houses, and a slower pace compared to George Town. Some of the homes carry clear Chinese influences: ornamental details, hanging lanterns, and other touches of Oriental décor that hint at the heritage of the place.
By the time we regroup, we settle into a local kopitiam. Each of us is served with one of their flaky pastries. I order a glass of iced teh with mine. Over snacks, I share small talk with some of my fellow bikers for the morning: the American guy, the Japanese guy, Binondo Boy, and Cavite Girl. TC joins in too, and when he finds out I and the couple are Filipinos, he laughs and admits he actually knows a few Tagalog words. Apparently, he picked them up back in high school while playing Dota with Filipino gamers.
After that stop, we’re back on our bikes, pedaling through one of the most scenic stretches of the ride. In the distance, the hills rise like a painted backdrop, framing the road ahead. On one side, a narrow inlet glistens in the sun, and we follow its path until we reached our next stop: the Saanen Dairy Goat Farm.
As the name suggests, goats are the stars here. But they aren’t alone: we find ostriches, porcupines, and even meerkats inside the property. Part of me is fascinated, but another part feels uneasy seeing these animals confined.
TC leads us outside the farm proper to a tree, which turns out to be a nutmeg tree. At first glance, it looks like just an ordinary tree—at least that’s what I think as someone unfamiliar with it. But it turns out, this tree produces a fruit that once shaped the course of history.
TC then begins explaining the importance of nutmeg. For centuries, nutmeg was one of the world’s most sought-after spices. In the 16th and 17th centuries, European powers fought bitterly over control of the islands in Indonesia’s Banda Sea, the only place where nutmeg was grown at the time. The spice was prized not just for flavoring food, but also for its supposed medicinal properties and even as a preservative. At one point, nutmeg was so valuable that a handful of seeds could make someone rich. In fact, it played a direct role in colonial history in this region: the British once traded the nutmeg-rich island of Run to the Dutch in exchange for Manhattan.
Today, Malaysia (especially Penang and Sarawak) is one of the few places outside Indonesia where nutmeg is widely cultivated. Nutmeg products from Penang range from jams and candies to oils and ointments believed to help with colds and digestion.
After that little “nutmeg history 101” under the tree, we return inside the farm itself. There, we are handed bunches of grass to feed the goats, who eagerly nibble at them. Something about the goats’ calm chewing feels oddly relaxing. Then we rest for a bit in the shaded area of the farm, and I treat myself to a cup of vanilla ice cream. Given that this is a dairy goat farm, I like to think it’s made from goat’s milk. Regardless, it’s a great cool-down after pedaling through Balik Pulau’s countryside.
We mount our bikes once again and begin the ride back toward Audi Dream Farm, this time taking a different route. The path opens up to another scenic stretch, leading us gradually to the highway. Despite being a main road, it isn’t too busy with vehicles, so it still feels safe and refreshing to pedal along. The pace lets me take in the green views around us, the warmth of the sun, and the breeze rushing past my face. The setting feels far removed from the noise and stress of everyday life.
As I cycle along, my mind drifts to my pandemic biking days back, when I used to take the quieter backstreets and roads in a neighboring province just to escape the monotony of the quarantine. But here in Balik Pulau, the backdrop is much more scenic, the air fresher, and the surroundings more serene.
For a moment, I catch myself wishing that life could always be this slow, simple, and free. But like all good things, the ride eventually has to end. Soon enough, we arrive back at Audi Dream Farm, where we return our bikes. Not long after, the car service is ready to take me back to George Town, and with that, my little countryside escape comes to a close.
Balik Pulau Cycling Basics
Timing
- Cycling tours in Balik Pulau run year-round, but the dry season (December–March) is generally more comfortable and reliable weather-wise.
- Morning is the most pleasant time to cycle. Tours usually start early to avoid the midday heat, and the soft morning light makes the scenery even more beautiful.
Access
- Balik Pulau lies on the western side of Penang Island, about 45 minutes from George Town by car.
- If going by public transportation, catch Rapid Penang Bus 401 or 502, which both connect George Town with Balik Pulau.
- If you’re already in George Town, most cycling tours include transfers or start points that are easy to reach.
Tours
- Cycling tours typically last half a day (3–4 hours), covering flat backroads through paddy fields, fishing villages, and orchards. Expect plenty of photo stops and local snacks along the way.
- Prices usually range from MYR 120-180 per person, depending on the operator and inclusions.
- Tours can be arranged directly with local operators in George Town or Balik Pulau. They’re also available through platforms like Klook, Get Your Guide, or other travel booking sites.
- Fees typically cover bicycle rental, a guide, bottled water, and sometimes light refreshments.
The Tourist Gaze 