For many travelers, Ilocos Sur begins and ends in Vigan, as if the rest of the province were mere countryside leading up to Calle Crisologo’s cobblestones. (When you think about it, it’s kind of like how people from outside New York think of the entire state as New York City: the capital of attention, where everything else fades into the background.)
But Ilocos Sur is a treasure trove of natural and cultural wonders just waiting to be explored. I’ve been to some of Ilocos Sur’s lesser-known corners before—visiting a brother’s friend in Santa Cruz one long weekend, and celebrating my sister’s birthday at Vitalis Villas in Santiago. Yet this would be my first time setting foot in Santa Maria, a town defined by a very beautiful waterfall and a centuries-old church that’s earned a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
As our joiner group leaves Abra behind and winds through Ilocos Sur’s coastal plains, Santa Maria becomes a pretty detour between the rugged ride to Kaparkan Falls and the long road back to Manila.
Pinsal Falls, Ilocos Sur: A Scenic Detour on the Road from Abra
After about an hour on the winding highway, the trip’s two vans make a detour to a narrow road that cuts through wide expanses of rice fields. Eventually, we park near the falls entrance and the sight water of cascades spilling down the cliffs catch our attention. It’s our first glimpse of Pinsal Falls.
Pinsal Falls is the largest waterfall in Ilocos Sur, and from the viewing deck alone, you can already see why it’s earned that reputation. A wide curtain of water plunges into twin basins surrounded by limestone cliffs and patches of wild greenery. There’s a cinematic quality to the place—not surprising, given that Darna’s iconic splashdown scene was filmed here decades ago. But beyond its pop-culture trivia, Pinsal feels almost primeval: a meeting of rock, water, and sky. The conversations of our group echo faintly between the cliffs, merging with the waterfall’s steady rush.
Some of us trek down the concrete steps to the lower pool, then start climbing toward the top of the falls. But a man guarding the falls says it’s off-limits, so we head back. Others decide to rent a raft that takes them near the falls, where they do their “aura” photoshoots.
Jerzey, our guide, tells us that the last time he was here—just a couple of weeks ago—the water was “the color of mocha frappe” (maybe that’s the former Starbucks barista in him). But today it’s a refreshing shade of turquoise despite a recent storm, tempting us to swim. Still, dreading the idea of carrying wet clothes back in the van, the rest of us stay behind on the viewing deck, content to take in the view and talk about our jobs and next travel plans.
Santa Maria Church: A Hilltop Church That Stood the Test of Time
A few minutes after noon, we leave Pinsal Falls, and the thundering sound of its cascades slowly fade into the conversations inside our van. The road winds past golden rice fields and quiet towns until we reach Santa Maria town proper, where we have lunch at a roadside carinderia.
Hunger satiated and energy refilled, we drive for a few minutes until an imposing structure appears on a hill ahead, its belfry rising above the town like a watchtower. This is Santa Maria Church, officially the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, one of the Baroque Churches of the Philippines recognized by UNESCO for its historical and architectural significance. Built in the 18th century, it’s remarkable not just for its age but for its setting: perched on a hill overlooking the plains, accessible by a long flight of stone steps flanked by trees. Unlike the ornate churches of Vigan or Intramuros, Santa Maria’s beauty lies in its quiet fortitude—thick buttresses, weathered walls, and a calm surrounding that feels so good especially when the afternoon breeze blows.
We climb the steps slowly, the afternoon sun bouncing off the bricks and warming the air around us. At the top, the church’s façade reveals the gentle curve of its pediment, the timeworn carvings, and the bell tower standing a few meters apart like a sentinel. Inside is empty of people and quiet except for the faint chatter coming from members of our group.
After the adventures and lively banters, the stillness of Santa Maria feels like a solemn benediction. The sun leans lower, brushing the red bricks with warm gold, and even the birdsong seems softened by the late afternoon calm. Our group moves slowly down the stone steps, savoring each view of the town spread beneath the hill, the fields stretching toward the horizon. It’s a rare moment of collective pause, acting as a counterpoint to the laughter, chatter, and sweat-streaked energy of the past one and a half days.
As the vans roll onto the highway, the town of Santa Maria recedes behind us, painted in the afternoon light. In our van, most of the group is silent, lulled to sleep by the driver’s early 2000s Pinoy rock playlist.
As I look out the window and see another town of Ilocos Sur whiz by like a blur, I realize that the obscure pockets of the province carry their own kind of energy. It’s a reaffirmation that some trips leave their mark in subtle, enduring ways. These small, unhurried moments amidst the major ones are what make travel worthwhile.
Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur Travel Basics
Timing
- The dry months from November to May are ideal. This time, the trails to Pinsal Falls are far easier to navigate, and the water’s color pops best under the sun.
- Note, though, that many joiner trips to Abra, which are anchored on Kaparkan Falls, happen during the wet months, and that makes Pinsal Falls a natural side stop. Just be prepared if it happens on a rainy day: the steps and trails can be slippery, and the water may be higher and faster, so take it slow and enjoy the drama of the falls in full force.
- For Pinsal Falls, early morning or late afternoon makes for the most photogenic light, and you’ll likely have fewer people around to compete for the perfect shot. The Santa Maria Church is timeless, of course, but visiting in the cooler morning or late afternoon lets you enjoy the climb and the hilltop views without the sun beating down.
Access
- Getting here from Manila by car is a long but scenic haul: NLEX, SCTEX, TPLEX, then through La Union before winding into Ilocos Sur.
- If you’re not driving, joining a van trip is the easiest way. You’ll appreciate the chance to nap while watching the countryside roll by. Once you arrive, parking at Pinsal Falls is straightforward, and the minimal entrance fee is a small price for witnessing that cinematic curtain of water.
- There are also occasional buses that pass through the town (look for those that go to Vigan, Bangued, or Laoag), but schedules can be sparse.
Transportation
- Once in Santa Maria, getting around is mostly by tricycle if traveling by public transportation. The church is at the town center and can be reached on foot. However, note that it requires a short climb up a hill. But the views and calmness make it more than worth the effort.
- Pinsal Falls is a 20-minute ride (around 11 km) from town. You would need to arrange a return trip with a tricycle or motorbike.
Admission
- Entry to Pinsal Falls costs PHP 20, which helps maintain the site and supports local tourism efforts.
- Raft rental costs PHP 1,000, with each raft accommodating approximately 6 to 8 people. The raft ride takes visitors near the base of the falls, offering a closer view of the cascading waters.
- The Santa Maria Church is free to enter.
Food
- Gacusana’s Food House – A roadside carinderia serving classic Ilocano dishes. I had rice, ginisang buto ng sitaw, and pinakbet, all for under PHP 100. It’s unpretentious and a great spot for refueling after trekking and sightseeing.
- A few steps north, there’s also Chowking, just beside the Savemore Market, if you’re looking for a familiar quick meal.
The Tourist Gaze 