Victoria, BC: A Day Trip of Memories and Unexpected Reunion

Scenic view of Victoria Inner Harbour featuring the historic Fairmont Empress Hotel and docked boats at the marina

Setting Out to Victoria

Passengers watching the ferry’s wake on a BC Ferries crossing between Vancouver and Victoria under gray skies
Passengers gather on the upper deck as the ferry pulls away from Vancouver’s shores toward Victoria.

The day trip to Victoria begins at Joseph’s place in Vancouver. We have been in the city long enough for time to strangely feel both abundant and scarce. There were many things we wanted see and do while in Vancouver; yet everything seemed perpetually deferrable. Maybe next time. We have lots of time here in Vancouver. It’s a paradox that only settles in once a place starts to feel familiar.

After all, our visit to Vancouver was never really about sightseeing. We are here for Joseph. His graduation a week earlier had been the anchor of the trip, and the reason our family gathered in the first place. Victoria, in that sense, is almost an afterthought. We even toyed with the idea of skipping it altogether, dulled by travel fatigue (especially after the trip to Banff and Calgary a few days earlier) and the comfort of simply being together.

It was only in the final days, when the reality of leaving began to surface, that Yanyan said it plainly: we don’t have time. And so we go.

After breakfast, we drive south to Tsawwassen through roads that have become familiar, partly because you stop noticing once a city starts to feel routine, but mostly because of a couple of trips to the Tsawwassen Mills (a large shopping mall with discount prices!). We arrive just in time for the 11 a.m. ferry. While waiting to board, a seagull perches itself on our side mirror and stays there for a good 15 minutes, unfazed, as if it had nowhere else to be.

Once on the ferry, the contrast is immediate. Inside the car deck, everything feels sealed and still; outside, the wind is sharp and the cold persistent. The sky is a uniform Vancouver gray, though there’s no rain. As the ferry pulls away, the skyline slowly dissolves into the distance.


Discovering Victoria, BC’s Colonial Capital

The British Columbia Parliament Buildings in Victoria, featuring a grey stone façade, central copper dome, and fountain with visitors gathered on the lawn
The British Columbia Parliament Buildings anchor the Inner Harbour, blending grand architecture with everyday civic life.
The exterior of the Royal BC Museum in Victoria, BC, with banners for galleries and exhibitions as visitors approach the entrance
The Royal BC Museum contextualizes the landscapes, cultures, and histories that shape British Columbia.
An intricately carved Indigenous totem pole displayed inside the Victoria Conference Centre beneath a glass atrium ceiling
An Indigenous totem pole inside the Victoria Conference Centre serves as a reminder that the city stands on much older histories than its colonial landmarks suggest.

Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, traces its origins to a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post in the mid-19th century, later becoming a hub for colonial administration. Its streets and architecture still reflect that history, from the elegant neo-classical and Edwardian buildings in the Inner Harbour to the preserved charm of neighborhoods lined with heritage homes. The city’s development was shaped by its coastal location, mild climate, and strategic significance, giving it a character distinct from the bustling mainland.

The city’s history is deeply intertwined with the broader story of British Columbia and its relationship to Vancouver. While Victoria emerged as the colonial capital and administrative center of the island, Vancouver developed later as a commercial and transportation hub on the mainland, fueled by railways, shipping, and resource industries. The two cities have always been connected by both geography and commerce, with the Strait of Georgia linking them physically, and trade, migration, and tourism linking them socially and economically.

For travelers, Victoria is a compact, walkable city rich in both culture and scenery. The Inner Harbour serves as a central gathering point, framed by historic landmarks. Its waterfront paths, parks, and floating villages provide intimate encounters with the city’s maritime life, while curated gardens, boutique shops, and cafes invite leisurely exploration. Even in winter, when gray skies soften the light, the city’s colors create a subtly picturesque charm.


Fisherman’s Wharf: Family Lunch by the Waterfront

Colorful floating homes at Fisherman’s Wharf in Victoria, BC, with visitors walking along a wooden dock under an overcast sky
Even in winter, the playful and colorful architecture and docks of Victoria’s Fisherman’s Wharf offer a quieter contrast to Vancouver’s busier waterfronts.

The ferry arrives in Vancouver Island, and a few minutes later, we’re driving from the port south to Victoria, the capital of British Columbia.

Our first stop is to have lunch at the Fisherman’s Wharf, a small floating village of colorful homes and docks, historically home to working fishing boats. Today, it’s a quiet tourist spot, where floating homes, small boats, and local eateries mix with visitors strolling the pier, all merging into a playful, informal atmosphere that’s a little less curated than other city landmarks.

There, we immediately notice the colors: the floating houses painted in cheerful, slightly haphazard hues, bobbing gently in the water. Yachts and small boats rock alongside, and the winter light mutes the scene, giving it a quiet, relaxed vibe. A handful of people wander the docks, their languages hinting at tourists, though in a city like Vancouver, even visitors could be locals. Waves lap at the docks, seagulls squawk in the distance, and the winter air feels calm and slow, exactly what our tired family seems to need.

We shuffle toward lunch almost on autopilot, until we spot a Mexican seafood restaurant tucked along the wharf. Orders are simple and satisfying: quesadillas for most, a burrito for Dad, carne asada birria for me, and nachos for Yanyan. The food is not remarkable, but more importantly, it’s filling and it provides nourishment after the ferry and the drive.

As we eat, we meet what I assume is a Filipino couple at the next table. The woman was originally from Zambales, but has settled in Victoria. The man, on the other hand, is from mainland B.C. and is visiting for the weekend. We trade stories about life in Vancouver and Joseph’s nearly two years living there. Their 16-year-old dog is seated on a chair beside them, bundled in a thick blanket, somehow providing the metaphor of time passing, of journeys that continue even after some trips end.

After lunch, we drive to the house of another friend, Sherilyn, to deliver a package for her husband, Ced, sent by his mom. The couple has been based in Victoria for more than a year now, roughly the same time as Joseph in Vancouver. We meet She and her newborn in front of their apartment, quickly take a few pictures, and return to the Inner Harbour.


Fairmont Empress and the Inner Harbour: Nostalgia and Family Moments

Front façade of the Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia, with red-brick château-style architecture and a Canadian flag under an overcast sky
The Fairmont Empress, Victoria’s most iconic landmark, stands along the Inner Harbour. The hotel’s grand château-style architecture harks to the city’s colonial past and reflects its enduring elegance.
A flower bed overlooking Victoria’s Inner Harbour, with colorful pansies in the foreground and sailboats docked under gray skies
Seasonal flower beds frame views of Victoria’s Inner Harbour, where gardens, sailboats, and gray skies come together in a characteristically coastal scene.
A street bagpiper in traditional Scottish attire performing on a Victoria sidewalk near a city wayfinding sign
A street bagpiper performing near the Inner Harbour adds a distinctly Scottish note to Victoria’s carefully cultivated Old World atmosphere.

We return to the harbor specifically for the Fairmont Empress. The hotel, opened in 1908, is a landmark hotel that dominates Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Its grand architecture, formal gardens, and historic tea rooms have made it a symbol of the city, drawing visitors for both its beauty and its history. For us, though, it’s the heart of our Victoria memories outside Butchart Gardens (which we don’t get to visit due to time constraints and is anyway technically outside Victoria). In 2012, we stopped here, letting the gardens and the grandeur of the building soak into us. Thirteen years later, curiosity draws us back. The Empress feels familiar but subtly different: the sign above the entrance is the same, but the gardens are now cordoned off, with some plants now gone, and the muted winter light softening the building’s presence.

A tour bus had arrived, spilling out tourists taking pictures and chatting with one another. Our parents maneuver their electric wheelchairs along the front, focusing on the view. Ate Lita flits around in her usual nonchalant manner, capturing the scene on video. Yanyan, the designated driver for this trip, is somewhere looking for a parking space.

Joseph wants to do a composite photo, with his 2012 pose recreated in 2025. I guide him into position, framing him in the same spot. Afterwards, I can’t resist separating briefly to explore on my own, with the harbor and nearby landmarks calling for attention. The Parliament Buildings, completed in 1897, house the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia. Their neo-baroque architecture and prominent waterfront location make them one of the city’s most iconic and photogenic landmarks. Our time here is short, so my travel photographer instincts kick in, feeling victorious in maximizing the clustered sites before we have to leave.

I return just in time as Yanyan arrives as well. We enter the hotel to use their washroom. Inside the Empress, the contrast is immediate. Warm lighting replaces the muted gray outdoors, tea rooms buzz with chatter, and the clinking of teaspoons punctuates conversations. Guests in elegant attire moved with purpose, yet the space somehow feels inviting and even intimate. Even in grandeur, there can be calm.

Standing there, bridging our 2012 visit and the present, I feel the tug of nostalgia and a growing awareness that our time in Victoria is short. I wonder if we should have lingered longer, maybe even stayed overnight. Still, in that moment, surrounded by family and familiar sights, the city feels liminal, suspended between memory and the present. It’s caught between continuity and change.


Beacon Hill Park and Mile Zero: Inspiration and an Unexpected Reunion

Mile Zero monument in Victoria, BC, marking the start of the Trans-Canada Highway, with orange wooden beams on stone pillars at dusk in Beacon Hill Park
Mile Zero in Beacon Hill Park marks the western starting point of the Trans-Canada Highway. It’s a symbolic end-and-beginning that feels especially poignant during a rushed early-evening stop before the ferry back to Vancouver.

With daylight fading, we return to our car and drive to Beacon Hill Park, a sprawling green space in downtown Victoria, offering walking trails, ponds, manicured gardens, and views of the ocean. It has been a public park since the late 19th century and provides both locals and visitors a peaceful escape from the city streets.

We make a singular stop at Mile Zero, which marks the beginning of the Trans-Canada Highway and sits within the park. The site includes a statue of Terry Fox, honoring the Canadian icon’s cross-country marathon for cancer research. Early evening shadows stretch across the pavement, and the rushed pace is unavoidable, as we have to return to the terminal in time for the ferry back to Vancouver. Still, even in the short visit, nostalgia hits hard. The Fox statue and the Mile Zero marker stir thoughts not only of inspiration but the unstoppable passage of time.

Only Yanyan and I descend to the statue for photos; the rest of the family stay in the car to observe. Just as we finish, a familiar pickup rolls up—Jacob, an old friend now residing in Victoria since 2018, had made the effort to meet us despite the ticking clock. We are touched. In his place, many might have chalked it up to lack of time and say, maybe insincerely, “next time.” Yet he carves out the moment.

There isn’t time for a proper dinner, though, so he suggests a quick Starbucks run at Uptown. There, we take photos together before we make our way back to the port for the ferry ride back to Vancouver.

Settling into the ferry for the ride back, we are aware that our time here—and with Joseph before the next separation—is slipping away. But the day’s events, along with the unexpected reunion, carry us forward.


Victoria, BC Travel Basics

Timing

  • Victoria is enjoyable year-round, but spring and summer (May–September) offer the best weather and long daylight hours, though crowds are higher. Fall and winter are quieter, with shorter days and occasional rain, but landmarks like Fisherman’s Wharf and the Fairmont Empress feel more peaceful.
  • For a day trip from Vancouver, morning ferries (7-11 a.m.) maximize sightseeing time, and the ferry ride itself is a scenic part of the experience.

Access

  • Victoria is most easily reached from Vancouver by ferry. BC Ferries runs regular sailings from Tsawwassen Terminal to Swartz Bay, about 90 minutes each way. One-way fares for passengers walking on range from CAD 15–21 for adults and CAD 7.50–10.50 for children; children under 5 ride free. If bringing a car, fares start around CAD 75–89, with saver fares (limited availability) sometimes as low as CAD 34–71. Booking in advance is recommended, especially for vehicles.
  • Once you arrive at Swartz Bay, it’s about 30–40 minutes to downtown Victoria. Options include:
    • Car rental or personal vehicle: The most flexible option, especially if visiting multiple landmarks.
    • Taxi or rideshare: Convenient, around CAD 60–80 one way for a standard car.
    • Public transit: BC Transit Route 70 connects Swartz Bay to downtown Victoria in roughly 1 hour, with multiple departures daily. Tickets are around CAD 5 per adult.
    • Shuttle services: Some companies offer scheduled shuttle vans to the Inner Harbour, usually CAD 20–25 per person.
  • For a faster but pricier option, floatplanes by Harbour Air from downtown Vancouver land at Victoria’s Inner Harbour in about 30 minutes. Prices typically start at around CAD 150 per person for a one-way trip, offering stunning aerial views of the Strait of Georgia.

Transportation

  • Victoria is a compact, walkable city, especially around the Inner Harbour, Fisherman’s Wharf, and downtown landmarks. Walking is often the fastest and most scenic way to move between sites.
  • For longer distances, options include:
    • Car rental: Flexible if you plan to visit places like Beacon Hill Park or Butchart Gardens outside the city center.
    • Public transit: BC Transit buses cover most of the city and nearby neighborhoods. Single fares are around CAD 2.50–5.
    • Biking: Several rental shops and bike-share programs allow cycling along waterfront paths and through parks.
    • Taxi or rideshare: Convenient for families or groups; fares depend on distance but typically CAD 10–20 within downtown.
  • For a day trip, walking combined with a rental car or occasional taxi usually covers all major sights efficiently.

Accommodation

  • Victoria can certainly be done as a day trip from Vancouver, but spending at least one night lets you explore more leisurely and enjoy the city after the day‑trippers leave.
  • Fairmont Empress – Historic luxury overlooking the Inner Harbour, ideal for a classic Victoria experience (from around CAD 480 per night, though discounts are sometimes offered).
  • Best Western Plus Inner Harbour – A reliable value choice within walking distance of major sights (around CAD 290 per night).
  • Quality Inn Downtown Inner Harbour – Basic and budget‑oriented near central Victoria (around CAD 120 per night).
  • If you want something a bit more quiet or luxurious outside the city core, places like Oak Bay Beach Hotel offer more resort‑style stays (around CAD 670 per night).

Food

  • Victoria offers a mix of casual harbor-side spots, elegant historic venues, and local favorites. For a day trip, prioritize walkable areas like Fisherman’s Wharf and the Inner Harbour for quick access, memorable views, and a taste of the city’s maritime charm.
  • Fisherman’s Wharf – Casual waterfront eateries with colorful floating homes. Quick lunch, seafood, or a relaxed bite while taking in harbor views.
  • Fairmont Empress Tea Room – Experience classic afternoon tea in a historic setting. Expect around CAD 65–75 per person for a full tea service. Also serves meals.
  • John’s Place Restaurant – A long‑time local favorite for breakfast and brunch with scratch‑made comfort classics. Great for fueling up before or after exploring downtown Victoria.

For more practical information, visit Tourism Victoria’s official website.


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