-
Holy Lands Tour: Jerusalem
Jerusalem—it’s complicated. Claimed as a capital by both Israelis and Palestinians, it holds deep religious importance for Jews, Christians, and Muslims, making it a focal point of longstanding conflicts. The city is divided into East and West Jerusalem, with East Jerusalem, including the Old City, being considered by Palestinians as the capital of a future…
-
Holy Lands Tour: Bethlehem
Bethlehem is both the birthplace of Jesus and a city of profound spiritual significance. Yet, beyond the nativity story, Bethlehem is also a place shaped by resilience, conflict, and history. As we cross the Israeli separation barrier into the Palestinian-controlled city, we are met with stark contrasts: ancient stone churches standing alongside walls covered in…
-
Holy Lands Tour: Qasr al-Yahud
As we draw closer to the checkpoint to cross the border to the West Bank, Iad provides a bit of background and explains the security process. “This checkpoint is one of several that manage entry into the West Bank,’ he begins, keeping his tone calm and reassuring. “Just show your passports and your entry permits–the…
-
A Brief Detour to Beit She’an
Iad greets us the next morning with the good news: the Ministry of Tourism has finally allowed us to conduct the baptism ceremony. The bad news: the area around the Sea of Galilee has still some vague security concerns. So instead of the baptism being held at Yardenit, we’re going to hold it at the…
-
Holy Lands Tour: The Lower Galilee Region
After breakfast the next morning, we leave our hotel in Nazareth and drive about 17 kilometers southeast to Mount Tabor. The mountain is identified in the Bible as the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus, where he was transformed and appeared alongside Moses and Elijah, as described in the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, and Luke.…
-
Holy Lands Tour: The Sea of Galilee’s Northwestern Shore
Early the next morning, we depart for the Sheikh Hussein Bridge, one of the main entry points for travelers moving between Jordan and Israel. The Jordan part of our tour has concluded, and we’re now heading to one of the world’s most high-tension areas. It’s an overall disconcerting feeling, although aside from a random security…
-
Petra, Jordan: Inside the Rose World Wonder
The next day, we leave Amman early for Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Petra is a breathtaking archaeological marvel carved into Jordan’s rose-red sandstone cliffs. Once the thriving capital of the Nabatean Kingdom, an ancient Arab group who inhabited the region, Petra was a major hub along the ancient spice…
-
Holy Lands Tour: Madaba and Mount Nebo
From Amman, we head south towards the King’s Highway, a winding, scenic route that threads through some of Jordan’s most beautiful landscapes. A magnificent-sounding translation of an old Hebrew term that probably only meant “main road,” the King’s Highway is a vital path for the north-south trade and the site of ancient battles. Nowadays, it’s…
-
Holy Lands Tour Prologue: Amman
It is early morning, the sun already bright but the weather chilly, and I’ve just awoken to my first morning in Amman, the unassuming capital of Jordan. As I walk around the neighborhood of our hotel, cars whiz past, and I look in front of me at a coffee shop. It’s still closed, so I…
-
Dine In: Corner Tree Café
[UPDATE, May 2025: Corner Tree Café has reopened in Poblacion, Makati after closing in 2024. The new location, at 5782 Felipe Street above El Chupacabra, maintains the cozy atmosphere of the original. The café had its soft opening on May 14, 2025, and encouraged reservations while still welcoming walk-ins. The café looks forward to reconnecting…
The Tourist Gaze
A Traveling Outsider Looking In
The Tourist Gaze 