The Tourist Gaze

At dawn, we embark on a motorboat ride to explore Palaui Island in Santa Ana, Cagayan, with the sky almost completely covered by clouds. Leaving Punta Verde, located on the eastern side of the island, where we camped under the stars, we head towards our first destination. As rain begins to pour, the gusts of wind and large waves cause the boat to rock, though our experienced boatmen remain calm. After an hour of navigating through the storm, we finally reach Cape Engaño, located at the northern tip of Palaui Island, unscathed.

Together with my travel companions Aurika and her boyfriend Yco, we begin a sunrise trek up a hill to reach the Spanish-era lighthouse at Cape Engaño. We climb 300 steps to the top, where the lighthouse offers a breathtaking view of the ocean, despite the thick clouds that obscure the anticipated sunrise. The island’s rugged beauty, with its melancholic gray hue, only adds to the allure of Palaui Island.

Off the northwestern coast of Santa Ana, Cagayan, is one of the most isolated and rugged destinations in the Philippines. It remains relatively untouched by tourism, largely due to its remoteness. Cagayan Province itself is 14 hours away from Manila by bus, and the 3-hour journey from Tuguegarao to Santa Ana adds to the island’s isolation. However, once you arrive, Palaui Island rewards visitors with its pristine natural beauty and peaceful atmosphere.

This seclusion has helped preserve Palaui Island’s unique ecosystem, home to over 100 species of rattan and other timber-producing plants, as well as 90 species of migratory birds. The island’s isolation has made it a haven for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts.

An hour later and we’re exploring other parts of the island. There’s a small waterfall a short trek from the beach of Cape Engaño, and a small piece of island called Crocodile Island for the leather-like texture of a large rock outcrop in the middle of it.

Then we set back to Santa Ana’s port, our boat plowing through the rough waters. It’s already 10 in the morning, but the winds and the water that regularly splash on my face are brisk. My mind drifts into oblivion, carried by images of rolling verdant hills and rocky outcrops battered by large waves.

After reaching Cape Engaño, we explore other parts of the island, including a small waterfall just a short trek from the beach and Crocodile Island, known for its leather-like rock outcrop.

By late morning, we return to Santa Ana’s port, the boat cutting through the rough seas. Though it’s only 10 a.m., the brisk winds and salty water on my face leave me in a daze, my mind wandering to the lush hills and dramatic coastlines of Palaui Island.

Getting to Palaui Island, Santa Ana, Philippines

Palaui Island is located off the northwestern coast of Santa Ana, Cagayan, and while it’s remote, it’s well worth the journey for those seeking adventure and natural beauty. The island can be reached by boat from Santa Ana’s port, which is about a 15-minute ride.

To get to Santa Ana, you’ll need to travel to Cagayan Province, which is approximately 14 hours by bus from Manila. From Tuguegarao, the provincial capital, it’s another 3-hour journey by land to reach Santa Ana. The nearest airport is Tuguegarao Airport, which is around 90 kilometers from Santa Ana and has flights connecting to Manila and other major cities. Once in Santa Ana, local tricycles and motorboats can take you to the various points of interest on Palaui Island.

Getting Around Palaui Island

Once you’ve made it to Palaui Island, exploring the island requires some effort, but the rewards are immense. Motorboats are the main mode of transportation to reach the island’s key attractions like Cape Engaño and Crocodile Island. Depending on where you’re staying, local boatmen can guide you to the island’s scenic spots.

For those who want to hike, be prepared for some moderate trekking, especially if you plan to reach the lighthouse at Cape Engaño. It’s a 300-step climb, but the view from the top is worth it. Exploring the small waterfall near the beach is also a short trek, perfect for those looking to enjoy a more secluded area of the island.