The Tourist Gaze

From Tangier, I take a bus to Chefchaouen, the famed “Blue Pearl” of Morocco, spending about two hours on the road with a short stop at Tetouan—a city I wish I had time to explore. The journey offers breathtaking views of the Rif Mountains, a striking contrast to the coastal scenery of my previous stops. This mountain range is deeply embedded in Moroccan culture, particularly among the Berbers, who have called these lands home since prehistoric times.

Once known for its cannabis fields, the Rif region previously attracted backpackers seeking a different kind of high. Today, the true allure of Chefchaouen lies in its enchanting blue-washed medina, a haven for photographers, artists, and travelers looking for serenity. As I arrive at my riad, the friendly staff advises me, “The best way to experience Chefchaouen is to lose yourself in its labyrinthine streets.” Though the town is small, getting momentarily disoriented only adds to its charm, and it’s easy to find familiar landmarks near Outa el Hammam, the bustling main square at the medina’s entrance.

The blue-painted streets of Chefchaouen are its most defining feature, sparking numerous theories. Some say the color repels mosquitoes, others claim it promotes a sense of tranquility, while some attribute it to Jewish traditions symbolizing the sky and divinity. Whatever the true reason, the result is mesmerizing—an immersive sea of blue that feels almost surreal.

No wonder Chefchaouen has become one of the most Instagrammable places in Morocco. Every corner presents a picture-perfect moment, whether you’re exploring hidden alleyways or simply standing in awe of the medina’s vibrant hues.

While the medina steals the spotlight, Chefchaouen offers more than just its signature color. At the heart of Outa el Hammam, the kasbah stands in rich contrast, its earthy tones and Andalusian-style architecture housing a historic fortress, a personal mosque, a prison, and a serene garden.

For panoramic views of the town, I take a scenic 30-minute hike to the Spanish Mosque, perched on a hillside overlooking Chefchaouen and the surrounding Rif Mountains. Built by the Spanish in the 1920s but never used as intended, the mosque is now a popular sunset spot, offering a breathtaking perspective of the blue city below.

Back in the town square, I browse local shops in search of a fridge magnet to take home before settling at Sofia, the only restaurant in Chefchaouen owned by a woman. A visit to Morocco wouldn’t be complete without savoring its iconic flavors, so I indulge in a fragrant chicken tajine infused with lemon and olives, accompanied by the ever-present Moroccan mint tea.

As I sip my tea and take in the peaceful atmosphere, I realize why Chefchaouen has left such a lasting impression on me. Beyond its striking colors and picturesque streets, there’s an undeniable tranquility here—one that makes you slow down, breathe, and simply embrace the magic of this Moroccan mountain town.