The Tourist Gaze

My original itinerary didn’t include a trip to the Sahara Desert. I initially planned to take the train directly from Fes to Marrakesh, thinking I didn’t have the time or budget for a desert excursion. But the owners of the riads I stayed at in Chefchaouen and Fes both suggested an alternative: a Fes-Merzouga-Marrakesh route. Their vivid descriptions of the journey—and the thought of possibly never returning to Morocco—made me reconsider.

And so, the next morning, I find myself in a van with six other tourists: four from Germany, one from Canada, and another solo traveler from Fes. We are all bound for Merzouga, the gateway to the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, but only three of us will continue on the Marrakesh route. Along the way, we pass through stunning landscapes, from the alpine town of Ifrane to the rocky cliffs of the Ziz Valley.

Just about an hour south of Fes, Ifrane is unlike any other place in Morocco. Built by the French in 1929, this hill station resembles a European alpine village with Swiss-style chalets and snow-covered pine trees in winter.

Many Moroccans visit Ifrane for its ski resorts, while students from the Al Akhawayn University give the town a youthful energy. However, apart from soaking up the European ambiance, there isn’t much to do. Our 20-minute stop is just enough for a quick stroll.

After another two hours of driving, we reach Midelt, known for producing the best apples in Morocco. Here, we have a warm lunch in a roadside restaurant—a welcome treat in the chilly weather.

My meal consists of couscous, complemented by lentil soup and a pastry with fruit for dessert. While Midelt is famous for its apples, I am served a banana instead. Maybe next time!

As we continue south, the scenery dramatically changes. The road passes through the Gorges du Ziz, offering breathtaking views of the Ziz Valley. We stop at a few scenic lookouts to admire the landscape.

In one of the stops, we see a valley filled with palm trees, surrounded by traditional mud-brick houses that seem to blend into the landscape.

One of my favorite stops is at a dining area with a terrace overlooking the valley—a perfect spot for a quick tea break.

But time is tight, and after a couple of minutes in each stop, we press further south to Merzouga.