The Tourist Gaze

It is early morning, the sun already bright but the weather chilly, and I’ve just awoken to my first morning in Amman, the unassuming capital of Jordan. As I walk around the neighborhood of our hotel, cars whiz past, and I look in front of me at a coffee shop. It’s still closed, so I make a mental note to check it out in the evening.

For now, I just walk around it, taking picture of its exterior. Its industrial-chic mix of various shades of gray gives it a sleek, modern feel. Simple yet striking, it’s the kind of place that blends an urban aesthetic with an atmosphere that encourages you to settle in, much like the city itself.

A relative newcomer as far as Middle Eastern cities go (having become a modern capital only in the mid-20th century), Amman’s architecture nevertheless layers textures from different eras-—high-rise towers of glass and steel stand next to low, sand-colored stone buildings. The city’s façade feels fresh yet grounded, with polished malls and dining establishments nestled alongside bustling souks and Roman ruins.

It’s Sunday, but today isn’t a rest day in Jordan; rather it’s a work day. Thus, the chill vibe is mostly on the city’s inherent attitude, not on the day of the week. Amman is relaxed, mixing modern sensibilities with the deep-rooted warmth of Jordanian culture.

After the brief walk, I head back to the hotel to join the rest of the group for breakfast. I’m here as part of a Catholic pilgrimage group tour that will take us through Jordan, Israel (and Palestine), and Egypt; Amman is the first stop on this 12-day journey. I’m not Catholic, nor particularly religious, but I always grab the opportunity to travel anywhere I haven’t been to. I booked this trip way back in January 2022, originally planning to go in September 2023. But between financial hurdles and work responsibilities, the timing just didn’t align until now. Despite the ongoing tensions and security concerns in the region, I was resolved to go through with the trip—especially given the nonrefundable payment.

We ride the bus for the tour to the city of Madaba. But first, Louie, our Bedouin guide from Petra, decides to give us a “bonus tour” and takes us to a brief detour at the heart of Amman’s history: the Citadel. Perched on Jabal al-Qala’a, one of the seven hills upon which Amman was built, the Citadel is one of Jordan’s most significant historical sites. It has been continuously occupied since the Bronze Age and offers sweeping views over Amman, with ruins that speak to the city’s long and diverse history.

The towering pillars of the Temple of Hercules loom into view. Built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, the temple dominates the site with its colossal pillars, remnants of a once-grand structure dedicated to the hero. But since it’s not an official part of the itinerary, we don’t enter the Citadel; instead, we content ourselves to the views from the viewing point, across the road from the parking area.

From here, wee see the sweeping views of the city below. The jumble of tan and white houses, the rising minarets, the crowded markets—modern Amman stretched out before us–all deeply connected to Amman’s ancient roots.

After a final look at the city from the Citadel, we head back to the bus. The Roman theater, the bustling souks, and the mosques all whiz by through our bus windows, but we don’t stop to even take pictures. “They aren’t part of the itinerary,” Louie says. “The Citadel isn’t even on the itinerary, but I just wanted to show you a panoramic view of Amman since we have time anyway.” Soon, we’re on the highway to Madaba for the official start of our tour.

That evening, before dinner, I find myself at the coffee shop again. I order an iced coffee and place myself at a table in the corner, while soaking in as much experience of the city as I can in this limited window. For now, Amman feels like an unfinished book. Hopefully, there will be a next time with more stories, more Amman.