The Tourist Gaze

Jerusalem—it’s complicated. Claimed as a capital by both Israelis and Palestinians, it holds deep religious importance for Jews, Christians, and Muslims, making it a focal point of longstanding conflicts. The city is divided into East and West Jerusalem, with East Jerusalem, including the Old City, being considered by Palestinians as the capital of a future Palestinian state, while Israel regards the entire city as its undivided capital. This unique and complex status is reflected in the cityscape of Jerusalem, where ancient religious landmarks like the Western Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Dome of the Rock coexist with a buildings, markets, and houses.

West Jerusalem: Modernity and Tradition in the Holy City

Our first stop is in West Jerusalem, the more affluent of the two. Here, the streets feel polished, orderly–sidewalks are broad and spotless, cafes bustle with patrons sipping espressos, and boutique stores display their goods in stylish, minimalist window arrangements. Men in black coats, wide-brimmed hats, and prayer shawls move with purpose, their sidelocks swaying as they strode by in small groups, murmuring in Yiddish or Hebrew. The air is thick with tradition and an insularity that feels almost impenetrable to outsiders like me.

This is the world of the ultra-Orthodox, or Haredi Jews, who had dedicated their lives to a strict observance of religious law. Sabbath preparations are in full swing. Families hurry along, children in modest dress clinging to their mothers’ skirts or running to keep up with their fathers, their eyes wide with curiosity. Each interaction seems part of an intricate ritual practiced over centuries.

But not all Israelis view these Haredim with the same awe. Iad, our tour guide, voices his frustrations openly. For him and many Israelis like him, resentment simmers under the surface, largely fueled by the perception that the ultra-Orthodox benefit from state resources without contributing equally to the workforce or military service. “We’re supposed to be helping Israel equally,” he tells us as the bus rolls through the Haredi neighborhood. His frustration feels complicated—this is, after all, a community dedicated to preserving a piece of Israel’s soul. And yet, in the gleaming affluence of West Jerusalem, where modernity and faith seem to live side by side, the divide between secular and religious life feels as present as the barriers separating East from West.

Ein Karem: A Tranquil Escape and the Birthplace of John the Baptist

Leaving the bustling streets of the Orthodox Jewish neighborhood, we head toward Ein Karem, a peaceful village nestled in the hills. The urban landscape gives way to winding roads and lush green valleys, and the frenetic energy of Jerusalem softens. Soon, Ein Karem comes into view, its charm evident in the stone cottages draped in vines and the gentle slopes dotted with olive trees. Known as the birthplace of John the Baptist, Ein Karem draws pilgrims from around the world, but its narrow streets and tranquil atmosphere give it the feel of a hillside retreat–an Israeli Baguio or Tagaytay, so to speak.

According to the Gospel of Luke, it was here, in a humble home surrounded by the hills of Judea, that John was born to Zechariah and Elizabeth, relatives of Mary, the mother of Jesus. The narrative of his birth is intertwined with a divine message, as the angel Gabriel appeared to Zechariah, announcing that he and his wife, who had long been unable to have children, would bear a son who would play a pivotal role in the coming of the Messiah. A church–unsurprisingly named Church of Saint John the Baptist–has been constructed at the site, with the lower courses dating back to the Byzantine period, and the current church structure dating back to the 11th century.

Inside, the atmosphere is serene, with soft light filtering through stained-glass windows and casting colorful patterns on the stone floors. A silver basin positioned at the altar marks the place where John is said to have been born.

The church’s exterior is equally captivating, with its façade adorned in the warm, golden stone typical of Jerusalem’s architecture. The surrounding gardens offer a tranquil setting, with olive trees and flowering plants adding to the calmness that permeates the area. Around the church compound, framed psalms bearing the words “Praise the Lord God of Israel” are displayed in several languages, with one presented in Tagalog, a reminder of the global reach of Jerusalem’s spiritual significance.

A short walk from the church is Mary’s Spring, believed to be the place where Mary, the mother of Jesus, came to visit her cousin Elizabeth during their pregnancies. According to the Gospel of Luke, it was here that Mary and Elizabeth shared a joyful meeting, with Elizabeth declaring, “Blessed are you among women, and blessed is the fruit of your womb.”

The spring itself is a natural source of fresh water that has sustained the village for centuries. A small chapel has been built nearby, where pilgrims often gather in quiet prayer or to draw water from the well. The surroundings of Mary’s Spring are a peaceful contrast to the bustle of the city, with the gentle flow of water and the lavender blossoms and verdant trees of Ein Karem’s rolling hills offering a quiet, serene atmosphere.

After soaking in the spiritual significance, we make our way to a nearby ice cream shop. The quaint shop, with its inviting display of gelato in a variety of flavors, offers a refreshing break. The group indulges in a sweet treat, although I content myself to seeing them joyful with each lick and bite.

With the sun beginning to set and the village slowly quieting down, we prepare to leave the peaceful hills behind and make our way back toward Bethlehem for the evening.

Sacred Landmarks on Mt. Zion

The following afternoon, after our morning tour around Bethlehem, we return to Jerusalem and visit King David’s Tomb, the Room of the Last Supper, and the Church of Saint Peter in Gallicantu–all on Mt. Zion.

King David’s Tomb is a revered site for Jews, Christians, and Muslims alike. For Jews, this is a place of connection to the legendary king who united Israel and established Jerusalem as the nation’s capital. Some scholars and historians question whether the tomb actually belongs to King David due to the lack of definitive historical or archaeological evidence; nevertheless, its significance as a sacred site is widely acknowledged by pilgrims and religious followers. The tomb has been venerated for centuries, particularly by Jewish people who see King David as a central figure in their history.

Upon entering, we are separated by gender, as is customary at this sacred site. The men and women are asked to visit the tomb in different areas, adhering to Jewish traditions. The tomb itself is simple yet reverent, with an ornate cover and a menorah flickering quietly nearby. A Jewish faithful, draped in prayer shawls, stands in prayer in front of the tomb.

From there, we make our way to the Room of the Last Supper, located on the second floor of the same building. This small, simple room is believed to be the place where Jesus shared his final meal with his disciples before his crucifixion. Though again, historians question the room’s authenticity, given that the exact location of the Last Supper is not definitively known. It is likelier, according to them, that this room was the place where the apostles received the Holy Spirit during Pentecost, as described in the Book of Acts. Regardless, the room’s stark simplicity only heightens its significance, where a long table is said to have hosted the pivotal event in Christian tradition—the institution of the Eucharist. The walls are adorned with religious art and icons that one can almost feel the presence of the disciples, gathered together in solemnity, aware that the moment would change the course of history forever.

A short bus ride takes us to the Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu. This church marks the spot where, according to tradition, Peter denied Jesus three times before the rooster crowed. The church itself, with its striking Byzantine-style architecture and intricate mosaics, stands as a monument to one of the most humbling moments in the New Testament.

Inside, a large stone stairway leads down to a prison believed to have held Jesus. The dark, cramped space is carved into the rock, and as we descend into it, I can feel the the rough-hewn walls. The cold air gives an eerie sense of isolation; the low ceiling and narrow corridors make it feel oppressive, almost as though it’s closing in on me with every step.

Fr. Randy, in his mild and reverent manner, delivers a short message here, speaking about the suffering and trials Jesus faced, and the deep meaning of his sacrifice. The weight of his words hang in the air, but I feel a sense of claustrophobia creeping in as the space seems to tighten around me. I quietly step out into the open air, relieved to feel the cool breeze on my face and the vastness of the Jerusalem sky overhead.

Via Dolorosa: Walking the Path of Jesus in Old Jerusalem

Finally, it’s time for the Via Dolorosa. We ride the bus again, which spits us out at Herod’s Gate, the northernmost entrance to the Old City. Iad offers a brief introduction to the path we are about to take. This gate, less frequented by tourists, provides a quieter starting point for the Via Dolorosa, which traces the journey that many believe Jesus walked on his way to his crucifixion.

As we walk along the route, Iad explains the significance of the 14 Stations of the Cross, the series of stops marking key moments in Christ’s final journey. He talks about the moments of Jesus’ condemnation, his fall, and his encounter with his Blessed Mother, guiding us through the labyrinthine streets and bustling markets of the Old City. We stop at each station, offering prayers, kneeling in silence, or whispering hymns as we connect with the path that had once been walked by Jesus.

We make our way through the narrow, winding streets of the Old City to the culmination of the journey: the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. With Iad still guiding us, we move through the maze of ancient stone alleys, now home to shops, street vendors, and the occasional chatter of locals. As we approach the church, the sounds of the busy market fade slightly, replaced by chants from the faithful in an Ethiopian church, and then by solemn quiet as the imposing stone facade of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre looms ahead. The structure, with its centuries-old history, stands at the heart of Christian tradition, marking the site of both the crucifixion and the resurrection of Jesus. Pilgrims gather in groups, their faces solemn, some in prayer, others in quiet reflection, all aware of the sacred significance of the place they are in about to enter.

After completing the Via Dolorosa, we take a rest in a nearby plaza to wait for the evening. The fountain in the center of the square is turned off, highlighting the ghost-like quality of the place, almost as though time has slowed. “You know, guys, it’s actually high season today,” Iad tells us. “This plaza is typically filled with tourists, but today it feels unusually still because of the ongoing conflicts.” The absence of crowds and the shuttered stores amplify the sense of desolation, as if to hammer us the fact that we just did the Way of the Sorrows.

Weary legs rested, we make our way toward the Western Wall. It’s Friday evening, and the start of Shabbat is drawing near, so there’s a palpable shift in the atmosphere. As we approach the iconic wall, the streets become increasingly crowded with Jews gathering for the start of this sacred day. Men and women, dressed in their Shabbat best, move toward the wall, where they will offer their prayers, touch the ancient stones, and place their written requests into the crevices, continuing a centuries-old tradition.

The Western Wall, also known as the Wailing Wall, is a place of profound significance for Jews, and tonight, the energy feels particularly charged. The murmur of Hebrew prayers blend with haunting chants that echo through the crowd. These voices rise and fall in unison, their reverberations seeming to stir the very stones of the Western Wall. The energy is thick with prayer and reverence. This is not just a physical space, but one that speaks to the deep connection between the Jewish people and this sacred site.

As with other Jewish religious sites, males have a separate space for females, so the men and women in our group go to our respective parts of the wall. We break into smaller groups. Along with two other guys from the group, we approach the wall. Carrying a piece of paper in my hand, I talk a bit to God like I have been saying my prayers constantly, and insert the paper in a crevice. I say another prayer, and then the three of us return to our meeting spot just in front of the exit gates. As we wait for the rest of the group, we observe the devotion of the people around us and am reminded of the diverse religious and historical layers that make Jerusalem a place of such intense spiritual significance–and why it’s so hotly contested.

A Pilgrimage to Mt. Olives

The next morning, we continue our Jerusalem tour at the Mount of Olives, which rises above the Old City and provides sweeping views of Jerusalem. For Christians, this is the site of several important events in the life of Jesus. The bus drops us at the top of the hill, near the Chapel of the Ascension. The chapel stands at the spot believed to be where Jesus ascended to heaven 40 days after his resurrection. This small and austere structure was built in the 12th century by the Crusaders and later renovated, with white stone walls and a modest altar. Inside, the focal point is a stone slab, believed to be the place where Jesus’ feet last touched the earth before his ascension.

Nearby is the Pater Noster Church. According to Christian tradition, this is the place where Jesus taught his disciples how to pray, as recorded in the Gospels of Matthew and Luke. The church, which dates back to the 4th century and was rebuilt in the 12th century, is named after the Latin words “Pater Noster,” meaning “Our Father,” the opening line of the Lord’s Prayer. The gate is closed, though, so we just stand outside while Iad explains the place’s spiritual significance.

A short downhill walk leads us to the home the Tombs of the Prophets. While the exact identity of those buried here remains a topic of debate, Jews believe the site contains the tombs of Old Testament prophets Haggai, Zechariah, and Malachi. The site consists of a large cave that leads to a network of smaller caves. Again, I feel claustrophobic, but it will definitely appeal to my adventurous self if I’m not with a large group.

Midway down the hill is the Dominus Flevit Church, a small but significant Christian church built in the 1950s to commemorate the place where, according to the Gospel of Luke, Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem. We have another Mass here, with the altar backdropped by a panoramic view of Jerusalem.

At the base of the mount is the Garden of Gethsemane, famous to all who know their Gospel as the place where Jesus prayed before his arrest and crucifixion. It is here that, according to the Gospels, Jesus experienced deep anguish, asking God if it was possible to avoid his impending suffering, yet ultimately submitting to God’s will. The garden is home to ancient olive trees, some of which are believed to be over 2,000 years old, adding to the site’s spiritual atmosphere.

We conclude our Mount of Olives trip with a visit to Mary’s Tomb, a site believed by tradition to be the final resting place of Mary, mother of Jesus. The tradition surrounding Mary’s death and burial is not explicitly detailed in the Bible, but Christian tradition holds that Mary died in Jerusalem and was buried here, and her assumption into heaven is commemorated by many Christian denominations. The term “Dormition” (meaning “falling asleep”) is often used to describe Mary’s death in Eastern Orthodox Christianity, as it is believed that she was taken into heaven both body and soul shortly after her death.

The tomb itself is located in a subterranean chamber, and its simplicity and tranquility stand in contrast to the Church of the Dormition, which stands above the tomb. The church is an impressive structure with a large dome and beautiful mosaics. It’s shared by several Christian denominations, and its location on the Mount of Olives offers breathtaking views of Jerusalem.

We return to the bus, which has been waiting for us at the foot of the hill, and head for our lunch in Jericho.