The City That Held The Line
Recently, Metro Manila and other parts of the Philippines were battered by back-to-back storms—Crising and Dante (international names Wipha and Francisco, respectively)—which brought days of relentless rain. Floodwaters rose in many areas, filling social media with familiar scenes of knee-deep streets, stranded commuters, and submerged homes.
But amid all the headlines and viral videos, one city was notably absent—Marikina.
Which might be surprising. After all, Marikina has long been synonymous with flooding, especially after Typhoon Ondoy in 2009. Marikina has since then been an emblem of vulnerability in a changing climate. And yet, this time, Marikina held the line, even as the Marikina River rose to 3rd alarm levels and nearby areas like Wawa Dam overflowed.
So I got curious: what’s really in Marikina? I’ve been to the city a few times before (including once when I walked around before going to a former colleague’s baby shower), but I never really got to take a closer look at its flood mitigation efforts. It only occurred to me recently to actually go there with that in mind.
Some of my earlier travel plans had been cancelled because of several days of heavy rain. But once the weather cleared up a bit, I figured, why not revisit Marikina? Just walk around, see what’s new, reflect a little.
Then, I thought as well of doing a photo walk around the city. That way, I could explore the city more intentionally. Since April also lives relatively nearby, in the Montalban area, we decide to do another photo shoot, more than three months after our Wawa Dam shoot.
Exploring Marikina’s Shoe Heritage and Historic Landmarks
First meeting at Riverbanks Mall, April and I make our way to Our Lady of the Abandoned Church, one of of the oldest churches in Metro Manila. Built in the 1500s and rebuilt over centuries, the church has seen Marikina through its worst floods, including Typhoon Ondoy. Back then, the church provided refuge as people fled to its steps, and its high stone walls offered shelter from the rising waters.
As we arrive, we realize a wedding is about to begin. The rain has started pouring by then, so we move quickly, squeezing in a few shots in front of the centuries-old stone façade. The downpour gradually gets heavier, and we find ourselves ducking under the awning in front of the church. A few minutes later, the bride is arriving in her car, so we quietly slip away to avoid photobombing what is clearly an important moment.
We head straight to the Marikina Shoe Museum, the former home of Imelda Marcos’s infamous shoe collection, with hundreds of her shoes displayed inside. But more importantly, it honors Marikina’s identity as the “Shoe Capital of the Philippines.” The museum also features displays on the evolution of shoemaking in Marikina, traditional tools, and rare shoe styles from different eras. Unfortunately, it’s closed today, so April and I content ourselves outside, taking photos around the museum’s brick façade.
Around the museum is a sort of Walk of Fame, Marikina-style. Instead of stars like in Hollywood, we see shoe-shaped silhouettes embedded in the ground, each with the name of a Filipino celebrity. Such details tell you just how proud the city is of its shoemaking legacy that it’s literally imprinted on the streets.
Just a few meters from the museum is the Kapitan Moy building, the ancestral house of Don Laureano “Kapitan Moy” Guevarra, credited as the father of the Marikina shoe industry. Built in the late 1800s, this Spanish-era bahay na bato became the place where the first pair of Marikina-made shoes was crafted, with help from Chinese shoemakers.
Kapitan Moy’s efforts helped transform Marikina from a quiet riverside town into the country’s shoemaking hub. Today, the house is preserved as a heritage building, home to a restaurant (Café Kapitan), a ballroom/events space, and small cultural exhibits.
Less visible amidst the historical charms of the area are the gently sloping streets, the drainage inlets, and how the pavement subtly guides water away. The entire area is designed to drain quickly when it floods, proof that even in the most nostalgic corners of Marikina, modern resilience is subtly built in. Such designs, along with the historic sights, represent the city’s values of industry, self-reliance, and civic spirit, which continue to reflect Marikina’s ongoing efforts to rebuild and improve after disasters.
Late Lunch and Shelter at Rustic Mornings
The rain has started to fall again, this time a little heavier. So April and I decide to wait it out at Rustic Mornings, and since it has been nearly two hours since lunch, I figure I might as well eat while we are here.
Tucked away in a quiet corner of Marikina, Rustic Mornings feels like stepping into a different world. What began as a one-table passion project by Portia Baluyut in 2009, inside a part of their ancestral home, has since grown into one of Metro Manila’s most beloved breakfast spots. With no formal culinary training, Portia infused her love for food and design into every detail. Her mother, Stephanie Baluyut, an artist and collector, filled the place with paintings on the walls, colorful knickknacks, and other little surprises tucked into corners. The restaurant is known for its hearty brunches, but it’s the setting that makes it unforgettable: mosaic tables, mismatched chairs, leafy alcoves, framed paintings, and textured walls. Every corner looks like it was made to be photographed.
I’m on a diet, so I opt for something light and refreshing—a bowl of yogurt, chia seeds, banana and strawberry slices. April meanwhile contents herself with a tall glass of matcha latte.
From City Hall to River Park: How Marikina Balances Beauty and Flood Control
After eating, we start walking toward the Marikina City Hall. On the way there, the rain starts falling again. It’s not too hard this time, but it’s enough to make us check the sky every now and then. Luckily, it doesn’t last long. We keep walking, and soon, I spot an old train parked by a wall along Shoe Avenue. It resembles one of those vintage kiddie trains you see in malls, except this one is just parked there in front of a mural that also shows a train. Google Maps tells me it’s called Antiguo Tren de Marikina, though I don’t know the story behind it or what that wall is. Nonetheless, it’s quirky enough to make us stop and take a few photos.
From there, we walk the length of Shoe Avenue until we reach the Marikina Freedom Park, right across from the City Hall and next to the city’s new legislative building. You can tell, just from this walk, how seriously Marikina takes its infrastructure. Projects like flood control and pedestrian-friendly spaces aren’t just plans on paper here, but are already part of everyday life. It shows what effective local governance can actually look like.
Before heading back to Riverbanks, we stop by the Marikina River Park. After our stop at City Hall, we hop on a jeepney bound for Riverbanks and get off just before the bridge. From there, we walk the rest of the way to the park.
The Marikina River has long been both a lifeline and a threat to the city. Its basin channels runoff from parts of Quezon City, Antipolo, and San Mateo, so during heavy rains, the river can swell rapidly, often overwhelming nearby areas. The city suffered heavily during Typhoon Ondoy in 2009, when the river rose to catastrophic levels and left large parts of Marikina submerged.
However, in the years since, the local government has invested in flood control infrastructure, regular dredging, and the development of linear parks to keep the banks clear and reduce risk. While flooding hasn’t been eliminated, these efforts have made a noticeable difference.
Today, the water level is a bit high, and the flow is strong enough that if anyone were to fall in, no matter how good a swimmer they are, they’d likely be swept away. Under the bridge, I see one of those painted structures that mark the river’s water levels. Currently, the water is still below level 1, which means it’s within the safe range.
The riverside trail is well-maintained, even if parts of it are still wet, and there are fallen leaves and branches scattered about. Everything feels calm, nonetheless. We linger here for a while, take some photos, and just soak in the cool breeze. The sun is beginning to shine again after the rain, and there is a stillness to the place.
After the short rest, we make our way back to Riverbanks to wrap up the day.
Marikina is a rare case study in how serious, sustained flood control actually works. While much of Metro Manila was submerged during recent monsoon rains, Marikina managed to keep itself mostly flood-free, despite its river hitting 3rd alarm levels. That’s impressive when you consider that the entire city is in a high-risk flood zone and that nearby Wawa Dam overflowed. But rather than wait for another Ondoy, Marikina acted.
After the devastation in 2009, the city launched its own flood control initiatives, starting with creek dredging and drainage upgrades, then building underground spillways and high river walls. These took over a decade and spanned multiple administrations, but they worked. Typhoon Ulysses and other storms since have tested the system, and while no flood control plan is perfect, Marikina has proven that when local governments take disaster risk seriously and persist across political terms, they can build real resilience.
Modeled by April Oñate
Marikina Travel Basics
Timing
- Marikina is a year-round destination, but needless to say, the cooler, drier months from November to February offer the most comfortable weather for walking around, especially along the riverbanks.
- That said, if you plan to go in the middle of the rainy season, Marikina’s well-planned drainage and elevated walkways allow you to still easily explore the city. Just bring an umbrella, wear waterproof shoes or comfortable sandals, and be ready to duck into a café if the rain gets too heavy.
Access
- The easiest way to reach Marikina by public transport is via LRT-2. Ride the train and get off at Katipunan Station. Use the South Exit — that’s the side facing the highway going toward Marikina. From there, ride a jeep bound for Parang, Lamuan, or Concepcion. Tell the driver you’re headed to Marikina Sports Center or the public market (palengke). Both are good drop-off points, and from either, it’s a straightforward 10–15 minute walk to the church and Shoe Museum area.
- If you’re driving: Follow the LRT-2 line toward Katipunan Avenue. Once you reach Katipunan Avenue, go straight, but make sure to take the flyover, which brings you to A. Bonifacio Avenue. Keep going straight, and after you cross the Marikina River, the road becomes Sumulong Highway. From there, just look for parking. Use Waze or Google Maps for the most convenient route and parking options.
Transportation
- Jeepneys ply along Sumulong Highway, but note that they don’t enter the inner parts of the city.
- If you need to go deeper into the inner streets, like near the church, museum, or river park, you’ll need to ride a tricycle. Fares cost around PHP 40 for a short trip.
Food
- Marikina is a known food hub in the metro, so if you’re planning a visit, you might as well turn it into a food crawl. There’s no shortage of spots to try, from local favorites to underrated finds, especially in farther areas such as Lilac Street and Concepcion Uno.
- In the historic area, Rustic Mornings by Isabelo is easily the standout. It’s on the pricier side, especially if you’re dining solo or as a pair. But the food is good, the servings are generous, and the garden setting makes it a relaxing stop. It’s best enjoyed with a group to make the most out of the portions and cost.
- For budget or familiar options, there are several fast food chains along Sumulong Highway, and even more choices at Riverbanks Mall and SM Marikina (though these malls are farther out, so you’ll need to ride a jeep to get there).
For recent updates on weather and flooding, check PAGASA or the Marikina PIO’s Facebook page.
The Tourist Gaze 