The Tourist Gaze

A Traveling Outsider Looking In

Banff National Park in Winter: Celebrating a Graduation in the Rockies

Scenic winter view of downtown Banff Avenue with shops and restaurants, framed by the snow-capped Cascade Mountain in Banff National Park

The Winter Drive from Calgary to Banff

Snow-covered peaks of the Canadian Rockies viewed from a vehicle, with power lines in the foreground
The drive to Banff involves views of jagged peaks rising under a crisp blue sky outside the car window.
Winter landscape of a frozen lake with snow-capped mountains and an industrial plant in the distance
An industrial plant is dwarfed by a frozen roadside lake on the drive to Banff.
SUV parked on a snowy highway with snow-capped Canadian Rockies in the background
Our SUV, framed by the towering Rockies and sunlit evergreen forests, parks at the roadside for a brief rest.

It’s early afternoon on a chilly December day. In almost any other place in Western Canada—say, Vancouver—the weather might be soft and drizzly. But an hour into our drive from Calgary to Banff, the mountains have already begun to assert themselves, snow-dusted and towering against the clear blue sky.

The toughest part isn’t the long travel day (we flew from Vancouver at dawn) or the frantic rush to the car rental counter earlier this morning. No, the toughest part is the cold that bites at my cheeks and fingers whenever we make a roadside stop. It makes me hesitate, wondering if I’ve packed enough layers to survive a weekend in this frigid weather.

“I hope our trip to Banff isn’t in vain,” I tell my sister Yanyan, shivering as I snap photos with my phone. “We don’t get to see the park’s lakes in full glory when all you see is white and frozen bodies of water.”

She nods, but we both know why we are here. It has been a day since our brother Joseph’s graduation. He had explored Edmonton last year, but finally setting foot in the Rockies is a first for him. In fact, thirteen years ago, our family visited Canada but never ventured beyond Vancouver. Now, we’ve finally returned to experience the peaks that tantalized us a decade ago.

Inside the SUV, the mood drifts between groggy silence and sudden bursts of laughter. My parents prefer the warmth of the car, while Joseph and Ate Lita fidget in the backseat, content to capture the views through the comfort of frosted windows. If I expect them to share my enthusiasm for braving the negative temperatures to get the perfect shot, I’m mistaken. They offer only silent delight, leaving the duty of taking pictures and capturing videos to Yanyan and me.

But that’s okay. The magic is not just in the snow-draped vistas, but in finally sharing this moment together.

The snow crunches as our SUV finally slows down at a fast-food restaurant beside a gas station. We’ve been driving an hour and a half from Calgary, and the sight of the logo makes us desperate for warmth and food.

From the car window, I get my first real glimpse of Banff. It feels almost dreamlike: snow-laden rooftops, mountain silhouettes rising dramatically behind every street, and a stillness untouched by the city. Whereas Vancouver was defined by green softness, Banff is crisp, white, and immediate. The scenery here looks like a desktop wallpaper.

My parents are wide-eyed, and Ate Lita keeps urging us to take her photo in her nonchalant but unmistakably excited way. I feel the same rush: Finally. This is the Canada I imagined.

Checking In: A Cozy Banff Hotel Deal

Snow-covered hotel balcony overlooking a heated outdoor pool and the Canadian Rockies in Banff, Alberta
From the balcony, snow dusts empty chairs while steam rises from the pool below, where winter bathers soak against the backdrop of towering Rockies.
Cheeseburgers and fries served on a wooden table at a snowy mountain lodge in Banff
Banff is not just about landscapes, but also about the more routine pleasures of travel, like a hearty meal with a snowy backdrop.

The afternoon properly begins when we step into the hotel. My parents immediately sink into the couches in the lobby, clearly relieved to finally sit down after a long morning of flight and driving. The space feels instantly welcoming, cozy in a way that makes you want to sit for a while. There’s a fireplace near the seating area, likely electric rather than wood-burning, but warm enough to convince us all the same. High ceilings, wooden beams, and stone accents give the place the feel of a mountain cottage rather than a conventional hotel.

Each of us lets out some version of “Wow” as the comfort is immediate.

After checking in, Yanyan heads straight for the windows. She booked the hotel herself after seeing it on TikTok, and she’s eager to see if it lived up to the videos. Outside, she spots the pool area overlooking the mountains.

“Too bad we didn’t bring swimming outfits,” she rues. “But take my picture there while I wear the hotel’s bathrobe.”

“Let’s do it tomorrow,” I reply, glancing outside at the cold and the soft afternoon light. Two men decked with tattoos are dipping. “Let’s try early morning, if there aren’t many people.”

She agrees, already mentally rearranging the plan. The “aura photoshoot” can wait; we want to savor the comfort of the hotel first.

It helps that we knew we’ve gotten a rare deal. The hotel usually commands steep prices, but winter is low season in Banff, and we managed to book our rooms at nearly half the usual rate. It feels like paying less for something indulgent, with comfort, views, and atmosphere all bundled together.

After resting for a bit, Yanyan nudges us to get moving. The front desk have given us complimentary bus passes valid for the entire duration of our stay. With sunset approaching early and daylight already slipping away, it makes sense to head out. Downtown Banff can come first; the hotel will be welcoming us back in the night.

A Trip Downtown: Exploring Banff Avenue

Winter street scene in Banff with Townhouse Liquor storefront and snow-dusted mountains
Banff Avenue is the town’s charming main street, where snow-dusted shops, cafes, and restaurants align perfectly with a sweeping view of the Rocky Mountains in the background.
St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church in Banff, winter, with teal spire and stone foundation
St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church is a historic Banff landmark, known for its teal spire, timber-framed white walls, and picturesque setting against the snow-capped mountains.
Rustic wooden museum building in Banff with snow-covered lawn and mountain backdrop
The Banff Park Museum is a charming, rustic wooden building showcasing the natural and cultural history of Banff National Park.
Parks Canada stone building in Banff illuminated at twilight with Christmas lights
Twilight settles over Banff as the Parks Canada stone building glows warmly with Christmas lights wrapping nearby evergreen.

The bus ride into downtown Banff is, in a word, uneventful. It’s off-season, so the vehicle is carrying only a handful of other tourists from nearby hotels, making the journey quiet and almost ghost-town-like in the area where we are staying. The windows fog slightly as we move along the snow-dusted streets, and the heater makes the interior pleasantly warm. My parents opted to stay behind at the hotel to rest, leaving just Joseph, Ate Lita, and me on this short ride. From inside the bus, the Rockies remain mostly hidden, teasing us with glimpses of snow on the streets but keeping the full majesty of the mountains just out of view.

Stepping off the bus, however, is a different story. The cold hits immediately, biting at my cheeks and fingers, but awe strikes harder. Banff Avenue opens up like a carefully curated winter postcard: snow-laden streets lined with a mix of historic gold-rush-era charm and modern comforts, mountains rising dramatically in the background. The first moment reminds me of Juneau in Alaska during our cruise in 2012. Only here, the town is more lively, clearly designed for tourists yet retaining a cozy, small-town character.

Banff Avenue is the town’s energetic main thoroughfare and the heart of its social and commercial life. The street is dotted with souvenir shops, cafes, Vietnamese restaurants, and even familiar chains like McDonald’s and Lululemon, all dusted in pristine snow. But the street is famous for its “perfect” sightline: looking down the avenue, I see the iconic, unobstructed view of the massive Cascade Mountain looming directly ahead. It’s a scene that features in countless photographs of the Canadian Rockies, and one I’m now seeing in person.

Yanyan and Joseph are immediately in their element, posing for photos at every corner. “Take my picture here! Now here!” they chorus. Ate Lita nonchalantly records her surroundings with her phone. A few minutes later, the three of them duck into a shop, emerging afterwards with Joseph sporting a beret, which will become his new favorite accessory. As for me, I focus on capturing the town itself: the snow-draped streets, the charming St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church, the Banff Park Museum, and so on. The cold is sharp, especially on my unprotected cheeks, but it’s invigorating. The novelty of a Canadian winter for a Filipino is too delightful to mind.

By the time we finish exploring the downtown, the early winter sun has already slipped behind the mountains, and the town is dimming into late afternoon. With about half an hour to wait for the next bus, we duck into the nearby McDonald’s for some drinks. We don’t need anything to eat, just a brief moment of regrouping before heading back.

The bus ride to the hotel is again uneventful but comforting, with the heater keeping us warm, and the familiar streets passing by in muted shades of snow and shadow. Once back, we quickly freshen up, slipping into warmer layers in preparation for the evening.

Dinner is at the hotel’s elegant restaurant. The space is softly lit, with low, warm lighting reflecting off wooden accents and polished tableware. We all dig into our respective orders (salads for some, burgers for most), letting the day’s events settle into a calm repose. Conversation is relaxed, punctuated by laughter over minor mishaps and stories from the day.

Further Afield: The Banff Sign, Lake Louise, and Vermillion Lakes

Wide shot of the iconic Banff sign with rusty-orange letters set against snow and mountains
Now relocated, the iconic Banff sign offers a better “I’ve been here” photo, framed by snow and soaring peaks behind.
Winter commercial plaza in Banff with snow-covered parking lot, wooden storefronts, and towering mountains in the background
Dominating the view, the Rockies are never far from Banff’s daily life and commerce.
Panoramic view of frozen Lake Louise, dotted with people walking across the ice, flanked by snow-laden mountain
Even when frozen, Lake Louise captivates. Visitors wander its solid surface, dwarfed by towering, snow-covered slopes.
Two people walk along a snow-covered forest trail, flanked by snow-laden pine trees
A winter forest trail near Lake Louise invites slow exploration.
Snow-covered pathway leading to Lake Louise with visitors, pine trees, and Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in the background
Approaching Lake Louise, the grandeur of Fairmont Chateau emerges through snow-dusted pines.
Person in a black jacket stands on a frozen Vermilion Lakes, gazing at snow-dusted mountains under a soft winter sun, gazing at snow-dusted mountains under a soft winter sun
Stepping on the frozen Vermilion Lakes, I take in the frozen expanse and the Rockies beyond.

The next morning starts not with Yanyan’s aura photoshoot (not enough time, we woke a bit late) but with a quick pilgrimage to the iconic Banff sign. While it’s no longer in its old location near the bike trail, the letters are now set against a mountain backdrop, still pleasant enough for the obligatory family photo. Joseph is the first to dash forward, camera ready, while Ate Lita and I trail a few steps behind, followed by Yanyan and my parents, who for this quick stop, have eschewed the wheelchairs and are making slow and measured steps. This—the photo op at the place’s name—is a tourist moment that feels necessary, even if it’s more about the memory than the view itself.

Afterward, we warm up with a quick breakfast at Tim Hortons. The mood is relaxed, with the warmth of the café acting as a quiet contrast to the crisp air outside. It’s nothing fancy, just coffee, tea, and a bit of comfort before heading into the cold.

Our main destination is Lake Louise. The road to Moraine Lake is closed for the winter season, so we mark that as a goal deferred. At Lake Louise, the path is buried in snow, and even the short five-minute walk from the parking area proves tricky. The wheelchair for my parents struggles to gain traction, so they opt to stay at the parking shed while we tread carefully across the snowy trail.

When we first reach the lake, I feel a pang of letdown. In this season, I already expected that the brilliant blue I’ve imagined will be nowhere to be seen. But the reality is, while still pretty, less visually striking. The water is frozen solid, muted in shades of white and grey.

Still, a few brave visitors wander across the ice. Even in this unexpected form, the lake holds its subtle, wintry magic. Nonetheless, I keep to the edges, wary of any thin ice, while Yanyan and Joseph venture slightly further for photos. Magpies add a touch of life to the otherwise muted scene, with their black and white feathers echoing the winter palette.

On the drive back to downtown Banff, we stop at Vermillion Lakes as the golden hour begins. The setting sun casts a soft, warm glow across the frozen water, and the light makes everything feel contemplative and cinematic. Watching the golden hour reflect off the ice, I catch myself thinking about how fleeting these moments are, how time always marches forward, and all you can do is savor it as it passes. A solitary skater glides on the ice, while another person stands watching. It’s a scene that captures the peacefulness of the Rockies in winter.

Returning to Banff town, we stop for a late lunch/early dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant tucked on a third floor, removed from the street’s bustle. We sample a mix of pho, fried rice, spring rolls, and other familiar dishes, sharing a cozy meal as the warmth of the room wraps around us.

The evening concludes with a small-town cinematic experience: a narrow, intimate theater with only four seats across, where Joseph and I watch a horror movie. It’s nothing remarkable on the screen, but the charm lies in the setting: watching a film in Banff, in a cinema that feels uniquely local, feels like the perfect end to our second day in the Rockies.

A Poolside Photoshoot and Farewell Brunch

Filipino father and son in Calgary restaurant enjoying chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream, wearing flat caps and smiling
Dad and Joseph share a chocolate lava cake topped with vanilla ice cream during a dual celebration at a cozy local restaurant in Banff.

Our final morning begins with Yanyan’s long-awaited aura photoshoot. But when we arrive at the pool, it’s already bustling with too many people to get the serene shots she envisioned. So, we improvise. We head up to my parents’ room, where the balcony overlooks the steaming water and the mountains. It turns out to be the perfect vantage point. I play photographer while she poses against the backdrop of rising steam and snow-dusted peaks. In the end, it works out even better than the TikTok videos.

After checking out, we make one last stop for brunch and a small celebration at the Chili’s attached to a sister hotel. Here, we mark two occasions: my dad’s birthday and, belatedly, Joseph’s graduation two days prior. There’s enough indulgence to feel like a proper send-off.

With bellies full, we begin the drive back to Calgary. Though our Banff adventure has come to an end, the mountains linger in our minds as we look forward to reconnecting with old friends for the next part of our Canadian trip.

Banff National Park Travel Basics

Timing

  • Summer (Jun–Aug): Warm, all trails and lakes open, wildlife abundant. Crowded and expensive.
  • Fall (Sep–Oct): Fewer crowds, beautiful autumn colors, cooler weather. Some high trails may see early snow.
  • Winter (Nov–Mar): Snowy landscapes, ideal for skiing and winter photography. Some attractions closed, cold weather. Off-peak = lower prices.
  • Spring (Apr–May): Blooming flowers, flowing waterfalls, active wildlife. Weather can be unpredictable; some trails still snow-covered.

Access

  • By Air: Fly into Calgary International Airport (YYC), the nearest major airport. Banff is about 1.5–2 hours (130 km / 80 mi) west by car.
  • By Car: Renting a car from Calgary or other nearby cities is the most popular option. The Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) leads directly to Banff. Driving also gives flexibility for lakes, viewpoints, and towns along the way. Winter requires snow tires or chains. CAD 50–100/day (depending on season and type of vehicle).
  • By Shuttle/Bus: Several companies operate airport-to-Banff shuttles, including Roam Transit, Banff Airporter, and Brewster Express. Convenient in winter if you don’t want to drive. CAD 65–100 per person one-way from Calgary.
  • By Train: The Rocky Mountaineer provides limited service. It’s primarily a tourist-oriented scenic train rather than practical transport. Packages from Vancouver to Banff/Lake Louise typically run in the low thousands of Canadian dollars per person for a two‑day journey, with SilverLeaf service starting around CAD 2,200–2,800 and GoldLeaf from about CAD 3,000–3,900 depending on season and upgrades.

Transportation

  • Public Transit / Shuttle
    • Roam Transit (local bus): Connects Banff town to lakes and trailheads. Around CAD 3–9 per ride (depending on zones). Get a Roam Day Pass if you plan to ride multiple times (CAD 30 per adult, free for children below 12)
    • Some hotels offer free or paid shuttles to main attractions.
    • Lake Louise / Moraine Lake shuttle: around CAD 10–15 per person (each way). Book ahead in summer.
  • Car Rental:
    • Good for flexibility and exploring beyond Banff town.
    • Winter parking is easier than summer, but high season can be tight.
    • CAD 50–120/day (varies by season & vehicle). CAD 1.40–1.90/L (approximate, check current prices)
  • Walking & Biking:
    • Downtown is very walkable.
    • Bike rentals available are in summer. CAD 25–50/day.
    • Trails along Bow River & town easy to access on foot or by bike.

Admission

  • As part of the “Canada Strong Pass” initiative, Parks Canada has waived entry fees for all visitors from December 12, 2025 to January 15, 2026.
  • If you visit outside of that window, here are the standard fees for 2025/2026:
    • Standard Daily: Adult CAD 11.00 | Senior CAD 9.50 | Family (1 Car) CAD 22.00
    • Youth (0–17): free
    • Annual Pass: Adult CAD 75.25 | Family CAD 151.25 (Good for 100+ parks).
    • Validity: Daily passes are valid until 4:00 p.m. the following day.
  • You can buy passes at the park gates, visitor centers, or online.
  • The daily pass for Banff is also valid in the nearby mountain parks: Jasper, Kootenay, Yoho, Mount Revelstoke, Glacier, Waterton Lakes, and Elk Island.

Accommodation

  • Otter Hotel – where we stayed. Known for its cozy mountain-cottage vibe, fireplace, and pool with mountain views. CAD 150–300/night (winter low season can offer discounts up to 50%, as we experienced).
  • Fairmont Banff Springs – iconic luxury resort with mountain views, multiple pools and dining options, and heritage charm. Often CAD 500+ and up depending on room type and season.
  • Banff Aspen Lodge – mid‑range hotel in town with a cozy mountain lodge feel. CAD 150–300+, depending on travel dates and availability.
  • HI Banff Alpine Centre — budget‑friendly hostel option with dorm and private rooms for travelers looking to keep costs down. Around CAD 90-100, depending on room type and season.

Food

  • The Bison Restaurant & Terrace – farm‑to‑table Canadian cuisine with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and Alberta meats. Great for a nice dinner in a cozy, stylish setting.
  • The Grizzly House – a landmark fondue restaurant that has been a Banff staple since the 1960s. The atmosphere is distinctively retro and rustic, featuring wood-paneled walls, disco balls, and phones at every table (originally used to call other diners).
  • Three Bears Brewery & Restaurant – A popular brewery with solid food and drinks. Designed to bring the outdoors in, featuring a huge 25-foot pine tree in the middle of the restaurant and a retractable roof for stargazing.
  • Banff also has plenty of options for quick stops or familiar fare, like Tim Hortons for a coffee break, McDonald’s for a warm snack, or Chili’s for a casual sit-down meal.

For more practical information, visit the official website of Banff National Park.

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