The Tourist Gaze

Before the first light of morning breaks on my second day in Catanduanes, I find myself aboard a tricycle, the go-to ride for cruising around these island roads. I’m getting a ride from Kuya Erap, whom I’ve hired to show me around the sights in Baras and Gigmoto. He’s about to show me some of the natural wonders that make this province a hidden gem in the Philippines.

Binurong Point

The first stop of the tour is also one of Catanduanes’ most popular (if not the already most popular, eclipsing Puraran Beach): Binurong Point in Baras town. The point is a cliffside promontory, adorned with vibrant green vegetation that creates a striking contrast against the blue ocean backdrop. It’s been described as something similar to the oceanside cliffs of Batanes and even Ireland. The vast Pacific Ocean stretches out before of me, and the sound of waves crashing against the cliffs creates a chill vibe for the whole scene.

Getting there involves an easy trek if you’re fit: just half an hour walking along a relatively straightforward path. Rachel, our local guide, walks ahead with a bamboo stick in hand, pointing out the best footholds and where the grass hides uneven ground. By 5:30, we’ve reached the point and wait for the sunrise. The first rays of the day paint the sky in hues of pink and gold, casting a magical glow over the landscape.

We then descend from the point and head towards a a freshwater lagoon nestled in the valley between Binurong’s hills. The trek involves walking beautiful shrubs that make me feel like walking in a landscape painting. When we get to the lagoon, the cool, clear water calls out. I enjoy a chill swim and soak up the peaceful vibes of the spot.

Nupa Green Lagoon

Leaving Binurong and Rachel behind, Kuya Erap and I press on with the tour. We make our way to Nupa Green Lagoon in the neighboring town of Gigmoto. The hike has me scrambling over rocks by the beach, which is definitely tiring. The reward for all that effort is the amazing view of the green sea lagoon–a beautiful natural pool right next to the cool rocky beach. Taking a dip in the chilly lagoon is worth the hassle of getting there.

Nahulugan Falls and Ba-Haw Falls

Our tricycle adventure takes us next to Nahulugan Falls and Ba-Haw Falls. Nahulugan Falls boasts a significant height, and the water plunges gracefully into a crystal-clear pool below. The water, cool and refreshing, begs me to take a dip. Surrounded by moss-covered rocks and lush vegetation, Nahulugan Falls is a haven for those seeking a peaceful retreat.

On the other hand, Ba-Haw Falls has a livelier scene, filled with a couple of families enjoying the Saturday morning by dipping into the cold, refreshing waters. Here, I strike up a conversation with Mike, a fellow solo traveler, sharing stories and experiences in this corner of the province.

Balacay Point

We finally make it to Balacay Point in Baras town, still looking pretty even against that cloudy sky. The view of Puraran Beach and L’Astrolabe, where I’m staying for the trip, looks pretty with its soft colors in the distance. A little drizzle here and there mutes the beauty of Catanduanes a nice vibe, but somehow it aligns with my image of the province as a place prone to weather disturbances. And the weather, with all its surprises, has turned this tricycle tour into an interesting mix of nature’s elements.