Downtime at Puraran Beach and L’Astrolabe

After the tricycle tour, I decide to recharge my weak social battery and enjoy the serenity in Puraran Beach. The golden sands and rhythmic waves provide the perfect backdrop for introspection and let me appreciate the beauty of the island at my own pace, an ability I’ve lacked since becoming involved in school operations.

Puraran Beach is Catanduanes’ most famous coastal stretch. But it’s not exactly a hub of energy and excitement right now. During the surfing season, the beach buzzes with the laughter of fellow travelers, locals, and the occasional surfer catching the waves; today, only a handful of guests are enjoying the site, mostly DIY travelers enjoying the calmness of the off-season.

I stroll along the beach for a while before retreating to a cottage and watch the waves as heavy ominous clouds hover above.

Just before dinner, I walk back to the highway and eat at one of the eateries by the highway. Dining here is much cheaper, where a serving of laing (a Bicolano specialty consisting of taro leaves and coconut milk) and rice costs just less than a dollar, about a third of the cost of a meal at the restaurant in Puraran.

I spend most of my down time in my hut at L’Astrolabe, a hidden gem tucked away from the main path. The rustic charm of this accommodation reflects the natural beauty that surrounds it –lush foliage and a rocky beach with the sound of the nearby ocean providing the main soundtrack — L’Astrolabe offers a genuine escape from the relatively buzzier vibe of Puraran.

The friendly staff at L’Astrolabe welcomed me with open arms the moment I arrived, and the place has since felt more like a home away from home than a traditional lodging. Their warm hospitality is a testament to the genuine kindness that seems to be ingrained in the people of Catanduanes.

The simplicity of the surroundings, coupled with the affordability, adds to the charm of L’Astrolabe. However, the lack of nearby dining options presented a minor challenge, requiring me to plan meals in advance or explore the island for culinary delights.

The rustic charm of L’Astrolabe resonates with my desire for an authentic and secluded experience, heightened by the absence of electric outlets and Wi-Fi. Embracing this disconnection from the virtual world allows me to immerse myself fully in the surrounding natural beauty.

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