The Tourist Gaze

A Traveling Outsider Looking In

Tacloban: A City Rises Again

The MV Eva Jocelyn can still be found in a coastal village just west of downtown Tacloban. The cargo ship was swept inland when Typhoon Yolanda (international name Haiyan) swept into the city and other parts of Eastern Visayas almost two years ago, causing a powerful storm surge that left thousands dead in its wake. Now being converted into a memorial with a lookout on top, the ship holds a dark story, reminding people of a time when rescuers and volunteers searched the destruction to find bodies among the felled trees, electrical poles and rubble.

Two years after the storm, Tacloban managed to rise from the rubble, proving that no disaster—no matter how powerful—can crush the spirit of its people. Today, downtown Tacloban is bustling, a stark contrast to the wasteland it became in the aftermath of Yolanda. The coastal village of Anibong, which was among the hardest-hit areas, has been rebuilt.

Yet, despite the physical reconstruction, the scars remain. The pain of loss lingers, but Tacloban chooses to honor its past not through grief, but through strength. The city does not forget, but it also refuses to be defined by tragedy.

The coastal village of Anibong has rebuilt itself after bearing witness to the wrath of Typhoon Yolanda in 2013.
The cargo ship MV Eva Jocelyn, which was swept inland when Typhoon Yolanda hit Tacloban, is now being converted into a memorial.
Left, Barangay 58 in the Anibong District is back on its feet. Right, a young boy explores his neighborhood.
Children play on a weekend afternoon in the Anibong District.
Men pass away the afternoon weekend with a game of basketball.
The Tacloban Port played a major part in the rehabilitation of the city. Today it’s a venue of hectic activities even in a calm Sunday morning.
The multicab is a cheap way of getting around the city.
The Leyte Provincial Capitol once served as the seat of the Philippine Commonwealth Government under President Sergio Osmeña, Sr.
Left, the Liberty Plaza fronts the provincial capitol. On weekends it serves as a venue for locals’ various activities. Right, a sculpture foregrounds a large mural depicting the first Christian Mass in Asia.
The premises of the capitol building serves as a playground for these young girls on a weekend.
A waiting shed encapsulates the locals’ sentiment about their city.
Left, children bike in front of the Sto. Niño Parish. Right, a statue of the Philippine national hero stands on Rizal Plaza.
The Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum was built for former First Lady Imelda Romuladez Marcos, who hails from the province. The museum is currently undergoing renovation.
Left, a classical style statue adorns the lawn beside the ruins of People’s Center. Right, a couple enjoys the solitude beside the abandoned building.
Shortly after Yolanda, Yellow Doors Hostel opened, adding a new dimension to Tacloban’s tourist accommodation scene.
Left, the Ocho Seafood Grill is a popular restaurant among locals, serving a variety of ocean bounty cooked according to diners’ preference, such as, right, kinilaw na may coconut cream.

Tacloban’s Sights and Attractions

Beyond its story of survival, Tacloban has long been a city rich in history and culture.

Leyte Provincial Capitol – This grand building once served as the seat of the Philippine Commonwealth Government under President Sergio Osmeña, Sr., during World War II. Today, it remains one of Tacloban’s most iconic landmarks.

Liberty Plaza – Located in front of the provincial capitol, this public space is a weekend hub for locals, featuring a striking mural depicting the first Christian Mass in Asia.

Tacloban Port – Once vital to post-Yolanda rehabilitation efforts, the port is now a center of trade and commerce, bustling even on quiet Sunday mornings.

Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum – Built for former First Lady Imelda Romualdez Marcos, this grand ancestral house-turned-museum showcases the lavish lifestyle of the Marcoses. Though currently undergoing renovations, it remains a significant cultural site.

Rizal Plaza – A tribute to Philippine national hero José Rizal, this plaza is a favorite spot for both tourists and locals alike.

People’s Center – Once a thriving government building, it now stands partially in ruins—a reminder of Tacloban’s past, yet also a place where couples find solitude amidst history.

Getting Around Tacloban

Taxis and tricycles are available, but for a truly local experience, hop on a multicab, an affordable way to get around the city.

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Tacloban’s journey from devastation to recovery is a powerful testament to the strength of its people. The MV Eva Jocelyn memorial, along with the city’s vibrant streets, historical landmarks, and delicious cuisine, makes Tacloban more than just a place that survived a storm—it’s a place that thrived despite it.

Whether you visit for its history, its food, or its people, one thing is certain: Tacloban is a city that refuses to be forgotten.

jayexiomo

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